GasGas Riders Club Forum  

Go Back   GasGas Riders Club Forum > GasGas Enduro Technical Forums > Enduro Suspension

Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-15-2018, 02:48 AM
SS109's Avatar
SS109 SS109 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 240
Default Suspension advice please

Just purchased an '11 EC250 with 48mm Zokes and Ohlins rear. I got my first ride on it Sunday. Both ends are stiff but ridiculously so on the forks. They didn't compress unless it was a big hit and the compression is set full soft. Front end was sliding off small rocks and pushing out badly in anything soft. Played with rebound but no joy. The rear was stiff but actually didn't feel too bad to me and hooked up really well. Previous owner was 180 lbs and I'm only 140 lbs. Don't know the forks springs but the rear is a 5.4. PFP is adjusted all the way out.

I started going through some of the older threads on here about these forks and the setups everybody was running with them. I found the chart that was posted a while back and it suggests I should be running .38 up front and 4.6 rear.

So, do these spring rates sound right for a mid-pack B racer? Also, where can I even find them? I read something about some KYB fork springs work but nothing definitive so any info on that? Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated!


__________________
Tucson Dirt Bike Trail Riders Meetup Group
AZ State Parks OHV Ambassador
'11 EC250
'05 EC250 (stolen )
'98 KDX220
Reply With Quote


  #2  
Old 05-15-2018, 04:10 AM
(F5)'s Avatar
(F5) (F5) is offline
Gold Level Site Supporter
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wellington New Zealand
Posts: 1,057
Default

Make sure you bleed air. You'll have to check oil level, but really then spring rate and oil type.

I found them deflect on roots but after a revalve they were better. Still felt they beat me up and after a couple of years some kyb sss forks revolved fixed the problem

At your weight everything will likely suit softer springs.
Going full soft on compression seem like the thing to do but it is only opening a hole which will blow through rather than progressively opening the shims.
__________________
'07 EC300
496 CPI Cheetah RZ/RGV hybrid
675 Street Triple R
RS125 framed MB100 racer
Stinger T125 Suzuki
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-15-2018, 09:16 AM
rvktm rvktm is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 76
Default

read the posts on 48 cc . i have the same problem on my 013 forks looking to change the ics ppf spring to a 1nm or 1.4 nm but struggling to find any in the uk proberley have to get them from usa of e bay ractech
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-16-2018, 05:30 PM
SS109's Avatar
SS109 SS109 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 240
Default

I've never torn in to forks before. It seems most around here don't have much experience with these forks. Since AZRickD already had them revalved before I think I might be up to just doing the springs and fluid change myself. So...

Could someone please list what special tools I need to accomplish a fluid and spring change? The info on servicing these forks is spread out in so many threads it's a pain to track it all down.

Also, for those that have used the KYB fork springs, did you use a spacer to get the 5mm preload on the spring?
__________________
Tucson Dirt Bike Trail Riders Meetup Group
AZ State Parks OHV Ambassador
'11 EC250
'05 EC250 (stolen )
'98 KDX220
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-16-2018, 06:08 PM
rvktm rvktm is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 76
Default

look on youtube
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-16-2018, 06:37 PM
Rick's Avatar
Rick Rick is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Lodi, Ca
Posts: 1,929
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SS109 View Post
I've never torn in to forks before. It seems most around here don't have much experience with these forks. Since AZRickD already had them revalved before I think I might be up to just doing the springs and fluid change myself. So...

Could someone please list what special tools I need to accomplish a fluid and spring change? The info on servicing these forks is spread out in so many threads it's a pain to track it all down.

Also, for those that have used the KYB fork springs, did you use a spacer to get the 5mm preload on the spring?
There is a suspension shop in Chandler, AZ, Ride JBI, might want to give him a call, his name is JB, nice guy, offers great advise and services just about everything!

Google it.. there is NO shortage of info on this guys shop. http://www.ridejbi.com/
__________________
Rick
99 EC 200
06 RM 250
AMA D36
375X
OTHG
375S

***Thanks for the support : Twin Air /O'Neil Racing / Race 100% / Matrix Concepts / ODI / Mika Metals
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-16-2018, 08:27 PM
Jakobi's Avatar
Jakobi Jakobi is offline
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 7,409
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SS109 View Post
I've never torn in to forks before. It seems most around here don't have much experience with these forks. Since AZRickD already had them revalved before I think I might be up to just doing the springs and fluid change myself. So...

Could someone please list what special tools I need to accomplish a fluid and spring change? The info on servicing these forks is spread out in so many threads it's a pain to track it all down.

Also, for those that have used the KYB fork springs, did you use a spacer to get the 5mm preload on the spring?
The inner cartridge has a snap ring where you can change the height of the spring perch. Spring perch needs to be pressed down to show them though, and it's usually a tight fit. Watch out for any swarf if the end of the snap ring bites into the perch.

Have a look at the manual here..

The cap and cart tools are the same size as KYB SSS.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-17-2018, 05:18 AM
SS109's Avatar
SS109 SS109 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 240
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rvktm View Post
look on youtube
The youtube videos I've seen so far on the 48mm Zokes suck but I'll keep looking. You have a particular one in mind?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick View Post
There is a suspension shop in Chandler, AZ, Ride JBI, might want to give him a call, his name is JB, nice guy, offers great advise and services just about everything!

Google it.. there is NO shortage of info on this guys shop. http://www.ridejbi.com/
No need for a good tuner. I use Donnie at ZR1. He's a good tuner and always works with me to get it right and I have been very satisfied with his work. Unfortunately, he's backed up right now, probably due to him recovering from hip surgery, so I was thinking I could learn to do a spring and fluid change myself. I figure it's about time I learn anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
The inner cartridge has a snap ring where you can change the height of the spring perch. Spring perch needs to be pressed down to show them though, and it's usually a tight fit. Watch out for any swarf if the end of the snap ring bites into the perch.

Have a look at the manual here..

The cap and cart tools are the same size as KYB SSS.
Got the Marzocchi manual for them. AZRickD provided that all printed out and in a binder for me when I bought the bike. Thanks for the tips on the tools and spring perch. I think I can give it a go.
__________________
Tucson Dirt Bike Trail Riders Meetup Group
AZ State Parks OHV Ambassador
'11 EC250
'05 EC250 (stolen )
'98 KDX220
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-17-2018, 04:51 PM
AZRickD AZRickD is online now
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,773
Default

Good thinking on doing the springs first and valving second. Over-stiff springs and incorrect sag will have the bike acting very strangely.

I actually had the forks valved softer at one point, so they *can* be made softer. I went another route because I was 210 at the time. Too squishy.

The fork springs are stock, so you can go lower. The rear is one size bigger, but I think I gave you the stock spring as a spare.

For the forks, you have wiggle room for lighter oil and a bit more air space (but beware of cavetation (forks need fluid carefully worked through them during service). And, a more compliant shim stack (flutter, et al) is what I tried before.

Also, the pre-load spring is one lesser than stock. I believe there is one more lesser spring.

My tuner also fiddled with the spring perch, but I’d bet there is more room to play.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 05-17-2018, 06:24 PM
SS109's Avatar
SS109 SS109 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 240
Default

Thanks for the info and thanks again for such an awesome deal, Rick! Hope to see you at the AMRA races!
__________________
Tucson Dirt Bike Trail Riders Meetup Group
AZ State Parks OHV Ambassador
'11 EC250
'05 EC250 (stolen )
'98 KDX220
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Suspension advice motopsycho87 Enduro Suspension 4 03-31-2016 10:02 AM
Springs/suspension advice? MYBOARDSNOTFLAT Enduro Suspension 1 07-26-2014 10:10 AM
Need Suspension Advice ggrider94 Enduro Suspension 5 06-12-2013 08:34 PM
I need advice... Fred1956 Riding Techniques & Training 2 05-28-2013 11:11 PM
Advice Please sbute General Discussions & Announcements 3 11-11-2009 07:04 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:40 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2009 - GasGasRider.org