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General Discussions & Announcements General Announcements, General Questions, e.g. What bike do I buy?, etc.


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  #11  
Old 01-03-2011, 06:57 PM
skid jackson skid jackson is offline
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one less part to buy and no tank and tubing to deal with and install during manuf. over many bikes equals a little more jingle in the factory's pocket ...


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  #12  
Old 01-03-2011, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy F collins View Post
thus allowing them to eliminate the catch tank
The " catch tank" is not really for overflow. It is a place for expanded coolant to collect.
My '07 MC 250 did not come with the expansion tank, so I run my coolant level a little lower to allow for fluid expansion.

A catch tank is vented to the atmosphere.

The higher pressure radiator cap raises the boiling point of the coolant. So, you have a lower chance of boiling the bike over.
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  #13  
Old 01-04-2011, 08:41 AM
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Troy F collins Troy F collins is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasgasman View Post
The " catch tank" is not really for overflow. It is a place for expanded coolant to collect.
My '07 MC 250 did not come with the expansion tank, so I run my coolant level a little lower to allow for fluid expansion.

A catch tank is vented to the atmosphere.

The higher pressure radiator cap raises the boiling point of the coolant. So, you have a lower chance of boiling the bike over.
thats exactly what I said in my post

edit the difference in the terminology catch vs expanded I understand
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  #14  
Old 01-04-2011, 12:27 PM
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For those with a Trailtech, it would be interesting to measure the temp under a good load like a hillclimb or tight sand woods, and then do it again with the thermostat removed. It will depend on what is the flow limitation in the system(impeller, plumbing, thermostat, etc), and be more of a factor at higher RPM (pump speed/flow). I can see the point for winter riding but in summer I'd yank it, one more thing to go wrong even if a slim chance. I pulled them from my KTMs as pumpkins are a lot more boil prone than any GG.

Will it be left in the WEC factory bikes? That should answer the question.
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  #15  
Old 01-04-2011, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by GMP View Post
For those with a Trailtech, it would be interesting to measure the temp under a good load like a hillclimb or tight sand woods, and then do it again with the thermostat removed. It will depend on what is the flow limitation in the system(impeller, plumbing, thermostat, etc), and be more of a factor at higher RPM (pump speed/flow). I can see the point for winter riding but in summer I'd yank it, one more thing to go wrong even if a slim chance. I pulled them from my KTMs as pumpkins are a lot more boil prone than any GG.

Will it be left in the WEC factory bikes? That should answer the question.

I think your right....I would be surprised to see it on a WEC bike

but would hazard to guess it allows safe operation in cooler temps...particularly those that like to pin the engine with zero warm up time
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  #16  
Old 01-14-2011, 11:57 PM
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Default Coolant Flow

Anybody got a good take on the coolant flow pattern? Does the fluid cool the jug or the head first (ie up or down flow)?
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  #17  
Old 01-15-2011, 08:41 AM
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Each rad feeds the pump intake separate, the left one through a passage in the cases. Pump output is again through the cases, up into the cyl, head, and splits at the "T" to feed the top of each rad separate. So what the tstat does is just regulate flow through one rad.

This system has always worked very well, especially in slow, tough conditions that produce steaming pumpkins. Also, I have seen a friend crush one rad (leaking), and just block off the hoses on the trail to get back, running on one rad.
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  #18  
Old 08-09-2018, 09:56 PM
Moto7man Moto7man is offline
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Default 232 F Acceptable Temperature?

This last weekend I raced a SORCS race at Sewanee TN, it was a great event, packed with spectators and riders. I was racing my 2011 EC 300 and I have a Trailtech Voyager with the red temperature light set at 200 degrees Fahrenheit. The ambient air temperature was around 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

It seems that certain things kinda change about your bike at race pace. This was a woods race with some slow tight sections, the highest temperature indicated on the voyager was 232 degrees, and when I got into an open section, the temperature immediately dropped to 219 then 200 degrees quickly. I never boiled over and at the end of the race the coolant level was at the top of the radiator.

I had not seen this thread about the 1.8 bar cap, indicating no boil overs should occur until 270 degrees Fahrenheit.The bike never got and never gets anywhere close to 270, the highest temperature ever is the 232 mentioned above. I am considering racing the Tennessee Knockout next weekend. Should the gasser be ok in these temperatures or should I install a radiator fan before the race next week?
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  #19  
Old 08-10-2018, 10:24 AM
Moto7man Moto7man is offline
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Buuummmp.......
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  #20  
Old 08-10-2018, 02:17 PM
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When in doubt. Or try an aftermarket coolant
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