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Enduro Chassis & Body Enduro Frame, Plastic, Brakes, Bars, Controls, wheels, tires, sprockets & gearing. |
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#1
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'06 EC300 Nissin Front caliper
JUST got around to bleeding the front brake on my '06 EC300 after having the bike for 8 mo. I knew it was dry (bike was shipped TX-to-CT), so I filled the master and hooked up my nifty vacuum bleeder to the bleeder bolt. It began to draw air/fluid, but I closed the bleeder to look at the master fluid level, then started back at the caliper and cracked the bleeder, and NOTHING would come out; the vacuum would not draw, and when I finally took the bleeder bolt out completely and pumped the lever, nothing came out of the caliper.
So I dis-connected the brake line banjo, and yes, fluid will pump out of the line, but not thru the caliper (even though it did initially). I've re-built a few calipers in my day, but I'm wondering if it's worth it, will all the Nissin calipers on Ebay, new and used. I can find CALIPERS that look identical to mine (Yamaha, KX, and Honda look like they all use this caliper), but the mounts look different; can this caliper easily be separated from the mount? This is the LAST thing keeping me from riding it. I took it around the yard with just the rear brake, and it kinda scared me because it seemed so FAST, and it's been 21 yrs since I rode my CR250. Am I crazy or what??!! |
#2
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I found with a dry system the best way (for me) was to push the pistons fully seated in the caliper and start from zero with bleeding. Bleed the line first (pump/bleed process) before moving to the caliper. For some reason the vacuum doesn't work well on a dry system, but it works wonders on a full system with light aeration.
You can try removing the pistons and filling the caliper manually, but that's a bit messy.
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Phil (New bike pending...) |
#3
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And yes, you can switch out the caliper mounts easily. I've done it on a few here recently.
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13 EC300 90 XR280 600cc Custom Snowbike |
#4
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Swap mounts easily?
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Please explain? I wish I had pics to show, but if you've done this, then you know what I'm talking about. |
#5
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If I am following you , those are like the "guide post" that allow the caliper to "float" on the pins. The pin can be removed, the rubber "bellows" can be removed.
The caliper can be removed from the bracket that secures to the fork leg. Just "push" it apart. Like a sliding motion. I pull mine apart once or twice a year and clean / lube those pins to ensure the caliper has free movement. I think it helps with reducing wear on the stationary brake pad. Hope that help.
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Rick 99 EC 200 06 RM 250 AMA D36 375X OTHG 375S ***Thanks for the support : Twin Air /O'Neil Racing / Race 100% / Matrix Concepts / ODI / Mika Metals |
#6
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Of course!
Genius, pure genius. Thanks for that dummy slap! |
#7
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When I was much younger I had a Fantic trials bike. I couldn't get the front bled correctly and ended up rebuilding the master cylinder and caliper in a bucket with 2 gallons brake fluid (with the hose) all while submersed. A little extreme but it worked great. Not that I suggest doing that, just wanted to share because every time I see a "can't get it to bleed" thread it makes me think back and laugh at myself
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jeff '00 XC250 (mine) LTS front and rear suspension, power valve cover, carb jet kit and rear chain glide, RB Designs head mod, BRP tall triple clamp, backyard foot-peg lowering conversion. '04 EC250 (the kids) (he can do his own mods haha!) |
#8
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Quote:
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Henrik Schmidt Faster, Faster!! Until the Thrill of Speed, Overcomes the Fear of Death.. Team YamaGas Racing. http://bricksite.com/teamyamagasracing |
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