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Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke Jetting, Reeds, Air Filters, etc.


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Old 03-10-2012, 02:13 PM
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andoman andoman is offline
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Default ASII Float Level With Pix

I have read a lot recently about poor fuel economy and the adjust-ability (or lack thereof) of the float height of the the ASII. I only have a couple of hours on my '11 EC 300, but with a 40 pilot, E3CH needle in #2, and a 172 main at 5000 feet, I shouldn't use half a tank in an hour of trail riding.
I read that the "adjustment tang" was plastic and could not be adjusted. I opened mine up to find out for myself and thought I would share some interesting fact that I learned.

Pix #1: you can see that the adjustment tang on mine is indeed metal and will bend. I was very careful, because the whole float assembly looks pretty flimsy.
Also, note the witness mark in the center of the right float. It is obvious that the top of the float has been spending some time pinned against the top of the float chamber... In fact, when I turned the carb upside-down, the weight of the float caused it to lay hard against the top of the chamber with no perceptible cushioning by the viton tip of needle in the seat.

Pix #2: The rough casting in the center at the top of the float chamber is what caused the witness mark on the float.

Pix #3: This view confirms that the float height as referenced to the seam in the float is not usable in the ASII. when the float is level to the carb body, the seam is well below the bowl-carb mating surface.

Pix#4: After bending my tang, the carb angle is changed perceptibly in the "lower fuel level" direction. There is also a perceptible contact cushion of the viton tip of the needle.

I have to wait to get my suspenders back from Les at LTR before I can give accurate milage nos. But I will follow up with the info here.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ASIIFloat.jpg (72.0 KB, 1110 views)
File Type: jpeg ASIIcasting.jpeg (117.8 KB, 1108 views)
File Type: jpeg ASIIseam.jpeg (109.8 KB, 1215 views)
File Type: jpeg ASIIlevel.jpeg (114.0 KB, 1210 views)


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Old 03-10-2012, 03:34 PM
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Good write up mate, thanks,
Mark
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Old 03-10-2012, 04:30 PM
roverhybrids roverhybrids is offline
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does pic #4 have a higher float level then pic #3?
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverhybrids View Post
does pic #4 have a higher float level then pic #3?
Pic 3 will be with the float just freeballing so that you can see the seam. The next one Pic 4, will be with the carb laying on an angle so that the float tang rests against the needle. If you flip the carb all the way upside down you'll notice it will fully depress the needle and you won't get a correct level either.

Thats the same as how I've set mine up. Just off level. The measurement is taken from the body to the lowest point of the float. About where the AL1 is printed on the body (between L and 1). Stock i think is around 6mm which puts the floats level across body. I moved to somewhere between 7 and 8mm (to compensate for the weird angle the GG carb sits at - tilted forwards).

Running similar jetting specs to the poster (42 N3CJ#2 172) I get over 100kms out of my 9.5L (1000ft+ 90F. 70%+RH)
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:19 PM
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andoman andoman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverhybrids View Post
does pic #4 have a higher float level then pic #3?
Jakobi is correct: The float is just "floating" in pix #3 to show the seam. If the float tab were bent and the resting position of the float actually resulted in the position of #3, then the float height would be higher than #4. Raising the float height, lowers the fuel level.

For me, I had to think through the fuel/float relationship several times before I went bending. With the carb upside-down and then with the float assembly upside-down in my hand away from the carb, I had to triple check that I was bending it the correct direction.

Feeling confident about achieving a "correct" height is further complicated because the perfectly straight seam is not visible along the float to readily fix an angular relationship to the carb body.
All that one has are round corners and vague lines made by light reflected off the float. In hindsight, I would have laid a straight reference line on the float with a carefully cut narrow strip of masking tape.
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Last edited by andoman; 03-10-2012 at 07:31 PM. Reason: Added note about taping a line on the float
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Old 03-10-2012, 11:13 PM
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I also connected my fuel line up to the carb with the bowl off and manually operated the floats to see when they would begin letting fuel flow and then cut off.

The idea about laying tape is alright. Ideally you'd cut a little template outof cardboard and work off measurements.
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
I also connected my fuel line up to the carb with the bowl off and manually operated the floats to see when they would begin letting fuel flow and then cut off.
That's a brilliant idea. I'll do that.
I wish I had done that before I made an adjustment to see if, perhaps, the float was unable to rise high enough to even cut off the fuel, given the contact the float was making with the top of the chamber.
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:59 AM
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Initially increasing the float height by 1mm to 7.5mm resulted in 22.3 mi/gal (9.4 km/l).
Not as poor as some here have gotten, but not acceptable.
So I increased the level by another mm to 8.5 and got the following: 27.27 mi/gal (11.59 km/l).
This is on a good mix of terrain: flowing single track, short technical sections, a couple of rocky hill climbs, a few miles of fire road.
68 mi (110 km) per tank is more acceptable. Especially since my one race a year is 50 mi between pits. I should just make it without hitting reserve.

My set-up for reference (11 EC300):
RB head mod
38 pilot
N3CH #2
172 main
5000 ft. / 68 F (1524 m. / 20 C)
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:27 AM
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FWW increasing the float height (lowering fuel level) actually lowers the pressure inside the carb which in turn leans the mix out. If you're not running WOT alot then you'll be fine.

2010 EC300R
42 Pilot
N3CJ#2
172 Main
1640 ft / 85 F (500M / 30C)

I'm two sizes richer on the pilot, and 2 sizes leaner on the needle diameter. Essentially the same same with slight differences around 1/8th only. Once on the needle taper its all the same. I also get same fuel economy.

Last edited by Jakobi; 05-11-2012 at 02:02 AM.
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:05 PM
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I am concerned about WOT. I'm never there in normal riding, but in my race there is a 5 mile section of black-top road. I plan on using the choke lever on the handlebar to richen out for a couple of seconds every 30 seconds or so while she's pinned.
I thought about jumping up to a 175 main, but the idle through 3/4 throttle response is great. I'm hesitant to mess with a good thing...
And I don't want to give up any of my modest gain in fuel economy.
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Last edited by andoman; 03-28-2012 at 05:07 PM. Reason: comment about fuel economy
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