#11
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Quote:
I mounted a 'backrack' on my Sierra & drilled a few 1/2" holes in the web gusset above where it attaches to the box. I hook my straps in those holes. The forks should be compressed about 30-40% of travel when the bike is properly strapped down. I run another strap across the back of the truck thru the rear wheel and use it to secure my ramps. I'm going against the grain here, but I don't believe it's a good idea to put a block between the tire and fender to support the forks. There are a couple reasons for this; Blocking doesn't do anything for modern forks. They can't 'blow' while compressed. They'd blow while out riding if they could. They can't be over compressed by tie-downs either. It takes a LOT of force to bottom a fork. It's actually better to keep the straps under more tension via fork compression, as it's harder for things to come unhooked if you're driving down a very rough road. Plus the bike will have less tendency to bounce around on the truck or trailer. If you have a seal leak during transport, it isn't because of compressing the forks, it's because you have an issue with your seals/wipers, and/or the slider. |
#12
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I disagree. You can achieve a much more solid tie down with a block or some such between the tire and fender. I've had my bike fall over quite a few times because the forks weren't blocked. Never when using a fork support.
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#13
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**Cycle Gear Usually has their house brand version on sale. Not as fancy, but work equally as well...I got one for $60**
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All healed up, and ready to burn some fat. |
#14
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All healed up, and ready to burn some fat. |
#15
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Bikes only fall over, or come undone when there isn't enough preload created by compressing the forks about 1/3 or more(about 4"), and/or the straps weren't attached properly. You have to get into the progression curve of the fork. The hooks on the straps have to be set in the attachment points properly (surprising how many guys don't do this properly) The ends of the hooks always should be facing up and out, never down and in.(millwrights know this). Better yet, use good carabiners. The straps should be as close to 45 degrees as possible from bike to tie point on truck or trailer. Multiple bikes should be tied to each other as well as to the transport vehicle. (I can't believe how many guys tie the straps vertically, or close to vertically & the bike sways around like a drunk) On trailers, bikes generally should be tied by an extra 2 points such as the footpegs, due to the extra bouncing a trailer goes thru. I've seen unblocked bikes fall only when guys just compress the forks a tiny bit; say an inch or so, or didn't set their straps properly. I've also seen blocked bikes come undone as well for the same reasons. You can't actually get a more solid tie down using a block vs without- you'd be breaking the law of physics. Tiedowns always have to be in tension. An unblocked bike tied properly will keep more necessary tension on the straps vs a blocked bike. Personally, I've tied hundreds, if not thousands of bikes down without blocks on trucks, trailers, carriers etc. never had one come loose. |
#16
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Securing a bike in the back of a pickup
Wow... Are You an engineer by trade
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2012 - XC 300 Racing Seattle, WA |
#17
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Similar above, soft ties and whatnot.
Like to toss one tiedown off the footpeg, to the rear of the bed tiedown point, pulling the bike backwards. Grab the rear tire and pull down on it whilst simultaneously cinching up on the strap. No need for chocks doing it that way, plus keeps the rear from hopping about on rough terrain. Usually only do one side, but two make it even more stable. Keeps the front wheel off the front of the bed too, that way you won't dent it.
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2017 Beta 300RR |
#18
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I always use a chock between the mud guard and tyre. It gives a solid perch and doesn't keep sustained pressure on the forks.
Also, don't think it was mentioned, but you can also tie down around the fork tube/triple clamp as opposed to over the handlebars. I also feel this is more solid and doesn't interfere or rub as much. And.. I hardly ever load my bike up! Just ride straight to the dirt and brap on! |
#19
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The chock/brace makes everything rigid. The only way you will a drop in tension is if the strap loosens, or the tyre slides sideways. The use of the chock also transfers more pressure into the tyre spreading the load/footprint reducing slippage. On the contrary, without a brace an impact can result in the fork compressing and creating reduced tension on the tie downs, which may offer an opportunity for the front to unload and also move. Correct me if I'm wrong.. |
#20
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No,you are right Jake.If you're useing hooks instead of carabinas,the fork compessing further slackens tiedown,hook unhooks,bike flips off ute/trailer.Untold damage and red faces all round.
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