Securing a bike in the back of a pickup

[noobi]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

I'm keen to hear how..

The chock/brace makes everything rigid. The only way you will a drop in tension is if the strap loosens, or the tyre slides sideways. The use of the chock also transfers more pressure into the tyre spreading the load/footprint reducing slippage.

On the contrary, without a brace an impact can result in the fork compressing and creating reduced tension on the tie downs, which may offer an opportunity for the front to unload and also move.

Correct me if I'm wrong..

Technically, there is more tension on the tie-downs when you don't use a fork support. Only because you can pull the tie downs down further.
The only thing acting on the tie downs to create tension is the reaction from the fork springs, which follows F = -kx. Where x is extension, or in this case compression.
So if you pull the tie down further, which compresses the fork more, then there is a greater reaction force on the tie down, by sinθ.

I still use a fork support though. I feel not using a fork support means you have to be more careful when tying the bike down, as you have to pull the tie downs further into the fork stroke to allow for any rocking which might temporarily compress the forks further than they are tied which may allow the tie downs to pop off. Ideally his can't happen if you use carabiners and soft loop tie downs though.

Basically, as long as you're careful when you tie down the bike, it doesn't really matter how you tie it down.

[iggs]

Has anyone got a picture of a chock?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[noobi]

This is a chock

This is a fork support/brace


I confused them in my previous port, which is now correct to what I was trying to say

[Jakobi]

Thanks Noobi! The physics don't lie! The tension is variable depending on how deep you pull the fork into the stroke, and one thing I'm not fond of is compressing the forks for any real period of time.

You've summed it up nicely too! Either way will work, and more importantly than where/how you tie down is taking the time to check that its stable, and monitoring it while in transit.

[Mick]

I like the ProTaper Tiedowns, the beaner has a nice swivel.



Funny we don't use chocks in a pick-up bed, but I like them on my trailer since the trailer bounces more then a truck bed...or Utes what you fellas call 'em in that Oz-Kiwi speak...

The girlfriend's old KX100 going to its' new owner...



https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=270999459745429

[sweeper]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

I'm keen to hear how.. Correct me if I'm wrong..

Point he is making is the preloaded tension of the forks will keep the tie downs tight.
You will have constant tension.If you chock the wheel you will only have the tension of how much the strap has stretched.Very common for that buckle to slip a bit.You just can't keep it as tight as preloading the forks.Seems you should be able to.The chock will take pressure off the fork seals tho.

In a pickup 1 bike.Lock front wheel in driver side forward corner.As one early poster mentioned you will lose that desired angle in that corner.You can get enough of it back by leaning the bike a bit inside.Take another tie down and go from the outside bar to the back corner of the bed on the drivers side.Swing the rear end over into same corner and shut the gate if you can.This will give you a good angle of lean to the inside.Won't block your view in the blind spot yet you can still see the bike in the rear view and side mirror.
Take the tails of your tie downs and make a half hitch at the buckle.This will keep the strap tight if the buckle slips.Take the rest of the tail and go over the bar and through the loop and back over the bar with a loose clove hitch.This will keep the hook from bouncing off the bar if you hit a pot hole or whatever.

How you put your tie down hooks on matters.Always from the front.This keeps the tie down hanging on the bar if it loosens.If hooked from the back they come off easier.When you hook into your bed loops same thing, how you hook it matters
Two bikes,either turn both wheels into the corners and repeat the above,with the difference being you take both back wheel and slide them together in the middle. Run a strap from rear corners through the wheels and around once and your set.
You can also turn the front wheels into eachother and kick yhe rear wheels into the rear corners and shut the gate.In this case you can use a loose piece of line and loosely tie yhe bars of both bikes together.If a tie down fails the other bike takes the load.


Strategically throw your gear bags,coolers and what not in the back and those bikes aren't going anywhere.

Wheel chocks are pretty much a joke.Bed mounted shoes are a little better.
If you gotta have a chock in there.Make it yourself.
You don't wanna be "that guy".

[Mick]

Finally someone shot a vid, on how to properly load a bike.

[Mick]

Originally Posted by sweeper

Wheel chocks are pretty much a joke.Bed mounted shoes are a little better.
If you gotta have a chock in there.Make it yourself.
You don't wanna be "that guy".

Think there is a lost in translation or something..

I always called these chocks. Used them for years and years...never lost a bike, even hauling heavy ADV style bikes. Not sure why you think they are a joke Maybe we are thinking of two different things?




Heck, screw chocks, shoes, straps all together...

Lock-n-Load

[sweeper]

Ow.

Ha.

Shoe is good on a trailer.
Especially if you can't tie a knot.

[3beejay3]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

I'm keen to hear how..

The chock/brace makes everything rigid. The only way you will a drop in tension is if the strap loosens, or the tyre slides sideways. The use of the chock also transfers more pressure into the tyre spreading the load/footprint reducing slippage.

On the contrary, without a brace an impact can result in the fork compressing and creating reduced tension on the tie downs, which may offer an opportunity for the front to unload and also move.

Correct me if I'm wrong..

On a blocked bike you only really have the compression of the front tire that provides the effective tension.
On an unblocked bike that has the forks compressed part way into the progression curve, there is enough tension on the straps plus resistance to more compression from road bumps.

The most important thing though for all those people out there who believe that blocking the forks saves forks seals - IT DOESN'T!!!!