84 RM 250 E Ground UP Full Restoration

[gasgasxc]

Originally Posted by (F5)

Sheesh. Anyway let's not pollute the poor guys thread with anymore life's disappointments stuff.

Save your "poor guy" bullshit.
And nobody cares what you haven't seen.Which you can't quite get over.

Their is a back story here where the "know" can be very important when everyone including the original manufacturer is telling you that you have a problem.And the one guy that should know is telling you that you don't have a problem.

[Moto7man]

This bike is 33 years old, it has been sitting in a garage for 26 years.

I split the cases on Saturday, here is what everything looked like so far.

Before you touch anything have one of these.This is the Genuine Suzuki manual and I was skeptical when I bought it. Its a small sized book, but it actually is a shop manual with step by step pictures on splitting the cases and all other procedures.


I used a Tusk case splitter, it works really well. I just made sure the splitter was level with the cases and I slowly pulled them apart. I had to loosen the splitter a few times to make sure the cases came apart evenly.



Here is the inside. No damage from failed components etc, just damage from neglect. Check out the water line on the crank and the case.

[Moto7man]

The Transmission looked just fine, all the cogs were good and the bearings are fine.


I had to wait until my puller arrived to remove the flywheel. I have six flywheel puller none were the right type. I bought a round puller but it was too wide to line up to the two holes on the flywheel. Those two holes are 29mm apart so I searched for a puller that would work.


Ok this is the puller that works for the 84 RM 250 E. It is a oem puller for a KTM 50 SR/JR Part Number 59029021044 believe it or not...lol....


Here it is mounted up. Its made much better than the other pullers that I have seen and the 3 sets of bolts are much higher quality. This puller width is about 28mm min and adjusts to a much larger width as well. This puller worked really well, I think a cheaper puller would have broken taking off this flywheel. Good tool, worth the money.

[Moto7man]

I pressed the crank out of the case without any problem.Here is what it looked like.The rod looks like new but the lower rod bearing is seized with rust.I am going to send the crank to the machine shop for a beadblast, rebuild and balance.



Both main bearings are completely seized with rust. Some sludge in the bottom of the cases but the bike had never been run with the old oil,so the transmission gears, forks and bearings were clean.The cases should clean up well.

[Moto7man]

Here is where we are at the moment. I going to have the cases beadblasted and refinished. The original motor color is black. Which coating and color should we use? What does everyone think?

[nknudsen]

If you want to keep the case paint simple, shaker can PJ1 case paint is nice.

[(F5)]

Make sure they aren't too aggressive with media. Done right that will give a great key for the paint if grease fully cleaned. Done wrong it will shred the thin ally. Make sure they know what they're doing.


PJ1 used to give a great finish, apparently the formula has had to change but I'd try it for sure.

[Moto7man]

Originally Posted by (F5)

Make sure they aren't too aggressive with media. Done right that will give a great key for the paint if grease fully cleaned. Done wrong it will shred the thin ally. Make sure they know what they're doing.


PJ1 used to give a great finish, apparently the formula has had to change but I'd try it for sure.

Thanks ! Some of the parts on this bike are magnesium. Can you anodize magnesium? Does anybody know?

I just wondered why we do not see the lighter magnesium parts on the modern race bikes. I heard stories about F1 cars, Niki Lauda's Ferrari that he crashed at Nurburgring in 1976, used a lot of magnesium parts and that they were prone catch fire and burn at an intense heat range. Here is Lauda's crash.

https://jalopnik.com/forty-years-ago...ier-1784656102

I saw this FAA article some magnesium must be in a molten state before it can ignite.
https://www.fire.tc.faa.gov/pdf/ar11-13.pdf

[Moto7man]

I am trying to match up a color code to powdercoat my frame.

Here is a shot of the frame, however most of the frame color is darker than the stock color because someone painted a darker blue on parts of the frame with a brush.(a brush, I kid you not.)


After checking several colors, I found this RAL CODE 5015 which is a 79 Bultaco Color.

http://www.ralcolor.com/

Does this look close to the original Suzuki color?

[(F5)]

In short anodising (however you wish to spell it) can be applied to a certain range of Allys with good sucess but some just won't be successful. Cast used to also be a virtual no no. But sort of recently the high pressure casting technology with the right alloy works.
So no to your cast cases.
My old 1980 TT500 had sidecover marked Magnesium so people didn't try Weld it inappropriately. Still used in manufacturing but more expensive.