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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #21  
Old 04-22-2013, 05:41 PM
einsteingarage einsteingarage is offline
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I did not have a plastic impellor and it wasn't rubbing The failure actually happened at the opposite side of the impellor shaft. That bearing let go or the shaft first then the bearing.


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  #22  
Old 04-23-2013, 09:04 AM
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Recently saw this one as well.
In addition to new impeller it also adds a thicker billet AL spacer that raises the cover.....or that is what it looks like....?

http://www.motocrosscenter.com/ecomm...oducts_id=2503
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  #23  
Old 04-23-2013, 10:03 AM
Vindicator Vindicator is offline
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Originally Posted by StuJohnson View Post
Recently saw this one as well.
In addition to new impeller it also adds a thicker billet AL spacer that raises the cover.....or that is what it looks like....?

http://www.motocrosscenter.com/ecomm...oducts_id=2503
Anyone ever tried this ?
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:07 PM
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Anyone ever tried this ?
No I haven't I see that it's listed for 01-09 ????
On another topic hose clamps. are they a one time use thing? Or special tool required? I'm in the process of installing checkpoint impellers in both bikes
2012 200xc & 250xc thanks.
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Vindicator View Post
Anyone ever tried this ?
you could order an 09 gasket and see if it is the same, if so, then you have the extra one that you would need anyway GoFasters may be able to tell you if the part numbers are the same for 01-13 water pump gasket...
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  #26  
Old 04-23-2013, 12:32 PM
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I suspect what that spacer in the kit does in add clearance for the impeller, which is deeper.

Gaskets are the same, as are the sidecovers. Pump covers are different, but only in external profile (flatter) from what I can tell. It seems to me like they tried to eliminate a secondary machining operation on the inside surface and rely on the cast profile, or the castings are undersized and uneven, which is why some appear to have a machined surface on only part of the area. That would be OK as long as clearances hold the impeller off the cover, but its not always the case.
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:08 PM
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Is it necessary to remove the engine from the frame to take out the side cover on a '11 ? Am I right to assume that when taking the side cover the entire shaft and plastic gear simply detach from the rest and come along with the cover ?
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by GMP View Post
Just don't slap this in and think all is well, it may not be. The pump covers as of late are sloppy in their finishing. I got a warranty replacement for mine that looked better but still had problems. Perhaps it was something else in the stack like the shaft or side cover. Temporarily install the impeller, the cover, and check clearance. Mine hit and needed to be releived. Use clay between the impeller and cover for a reasonable estimation. Around .5 mm should be good, its not that critical especially with the new impeller. Set this up right and you should have no more problems.
I have done all the above,the shaft won't budge .5mm taken out of the back?
and how exactly a lathe i presume? also what's the trick for the hose clamps?
Thanks
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Vindicator View Post
Is it necessary to remove the engine from the frame to take out the side cover on a '11 ? Am I right to assume that when taking the side cover the entire shaft and plastic gear simply detach from the rest and come along with the cover ?
I simply removed the pump cover then the side cover,after draining the fluids
first. 12' model though. and yes shaft and gear all come out together.
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:51 PM
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John,

You mean the impeller bolt won't budge from the shaft right? If you remove the pin from the shaft, and gear, the impeller and shaft will just come out the front with half of the two part pump seal. Do this, and clamp it in a vise with alloy soft jaws. If you still can't break it, remove the pump seal and try a little heat. Next, drill the head off and just twist the impeller. It may break but who cares. You can then grab the insert or stub with pliers. I've done one every way noted so far!

I used an end mill with a pilot to cut the rear of the impellar. Lathe would be better though.

Hose clamps pop apart with a screw driver between the small rolled/crimped looking sections. Hard to describe, just pry around and it will be obvious when it moves. You can reuse them, but I like the worm drive clamps.
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