#81
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
This is how it should look. |
#82
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Ok so it's not allowed to touch the bolt ? Maybe thats why its strange sound with full gas ? |
#83
|
||||
|
||||
The picture I posted shows the powervalve in the fully closed position. (With the actuator arm disconnected as the cylinder is off the bike in the pic). The arm is to connect to the pin, with the plate in the position shown in my pic.
You can run the bike with the cover off and watch the plate move in its action. The main thing here is to note that it should be fully closed at idle (up against the bolt), and swing around as the revs increase, hitting full open in the upper rpm (other side of plate against the bolt). Also, if you disconnect the actuator arm from the plate you should be able to manually move the plate in its motions. It should glide smooth and easily in both directions. If you have any binding or resistance you'll need to service the PV assembly. Special note: Don't try to move the plate around with the arm attached. It will dislodge a ball lower in setup and stop the system working. Last edited by Jakobi; 03-07-2012 at 07:23 PM. Reason: ..more |
#84
|
|||
|
|||
Arm Binding
Check the clearance of the pushrod to the opening from PV chamber down to cylinder. Mine (and others were) binding here preventing the arm making full contact to the stopper. I had to remove my PV actuator rod and bend a "jog" in it to prevent it binding . Works great now.
|
#85
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
But you havent answered my question, at least not full of it that thing I will "bend" little, can that thing make the sound because of touching the bolt?? Damn I'm useless in english sry guys but I try... |
#86
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
If you hear a noise when revving the engine then it could be the exhaust rubbing on the flange which will stop if replacing the o-rings. Push the pipe with your boot and see if it still makes the noise. |
#87
|
||||
|
||||
PS. Post a pic, or even video would be better. It might help bridge the language barrier a bit
|
#88
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I will post pics when I've come so far, atm I'm changing bearings and "rod", the piston is in that rod thing u know Hopefully I get it all today so I can put all things together so I will come back do u guys later. But one more thing. I've seen u guys putting schims down on the PV thing, is it nessescery or can I just lose the bolt down there and fix it that way so there is no "extra" room? thanks |
#89
|
||||
|
||||
Haven't read whole thread, just be aware to melt nylock nut before trying to remove that nut that holds the wire linkage in pic. They are only m4 & like to shear off, that is a pain but repairable. I forgot last time.
No shims, just loosen & readjust lever in cases. Becomes obvious when you do it but the thread help with pics. |
#90
|
|||
|
|||
I can move the rod with my hand From closed to open very easy, does this mean I have probs? If so whats gone wrong and how can I sort this? Manythanks....
|
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Low down / tickover issue HELP | stevehipkiss | Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke | 9 | 02-14-2011 09:03 AM |
jetting - idle issue. | stainlesscycle | Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke | 7 | 12-30-2009 02:47 AM |
clutch issue | boostedte37 | General Discussions & Announcements | 2 | 11-09-2009 06:58 PM |
ec 400 gearbox issue | Paul Somerville | Enduro Engine 4 stroke (including EFI & Exhaust) | 3 | 09-05-2009 10:17 AM |
PowerValve Issue- Take A look at this Picture | alexpp | Enduro Engine - 2 stroke | 13 | 04-12-2009 12:13 AM |