Ec 300 2008

[Jakobi]

And the needle does cross over with the main.

Hold the N1EF vs an N3Ex and look at the tip. Even to the naked eye you can see that the suzuki needle thins out a bucketload more (providing additional fuel). Generally, the dial taper KTM/Yamaha needles need around 2 sizes richer on the main.

The 38mm AS1 requires richer jetting than what you'll read on the new models with AS2 carbs. Most noticably off idle, but it is across the board. I'd expect something like 38/40 N3EG#3 178 to be on the money for you.

13/50 gearing should work a treat for that terrain and keep you in 2nd a bit more of the time.

[5valve]

gassergrant, its Slovenia, just outside capital. "small" patch of forrest, hills, creeks, fire roads, about 30s from my house.

So Jakobi's advice is to use N3EG combo, practically identical to gassergant 's.
Is this jetting combo N3EG#3, 38-40, 178 tempeture sensitive for winter/summer jets changes being a must, or just finetuning of air screw and maybe needle height is enough to compensate?
Riding temeratures range from 23F to 95F, mostly being in 50/77 range. Never extremely humid.


I do have in grasp KTM needles, N84K, N2ZK, N2ZW and N2ZL, but being "2", I presume are not OK.
Jets i have enough, to test.

CCK and CEK are keihin brand needles, do they correlate to any OEM?

I dont have JD spreadsheet.

[Jakobi]

N2ZW is the same taper profile as the N3EW but richer clip for clip. Would have to check notes to confirm if its 1 clip pos, or 1.5 clips..

But for your model carb you really need a G diameter. The Suzuki needles will work too, but you'd need G/F diameters.

N3EG middle clip gives you a fair amount of adjustment up/down depending on your requirements. Obviously the recommendation is just a starting point. The testing has to be done by the rider and the bike, in its home conditions.

[5valve]

OK, will do, ang go further, if needed. Just want the idle screw not to be almost bottomed out and fix the idle hi/low, by float adjustment in 14-16mm range, or by using the parallel approach and measure it afterwards.

[Jacob 'Berg]

I have the same carb and am running at a similar elevation, so I thought I would post my set up for you. Jetting is spot on for winter riding here in AZ with ambient temps 50-75 degrees F. I will move the needle to position #2 and drop the pilot to a 35 when it warms up for summer.

AS I
Needle: CEK, clip position #3
Pilot: 38
Main: 175
Air Screw: 1-1.5 turns out depending on temp

I hope this helps. The CEK works well for me as I have plenty of adjustment for temp and elevation.

[5valve]

Delving into engine, replacing seals, to ensure no airleaks are occuring, bumped into problem.

First went for the clutch removal, and found the basket nut to be hand unscrewable, and the washers two inner legs were tad bent upward. Still complete loosening could not occur, due to the leggies hiting other obstacles.
Some time in the past it was probably torqued as per the manual, not by those increased values, found in tech articles.

To reach main shaft's seal, RHD cover must be removed. Can't do it in any way. It is hooked to sth at water pump area.
I do get some clearance and can make some leverage, but forcing seems to eat up the gasket area.
What is holding it? Manual says just remove all bolts. 5 on the clutch cover, 6 more around, and pull the cover. No way.

[john r b]

The dowels are seized. meaning it will take a while. use some oil on the two dowels and tap w/ a rubber hammer. best of luck.

[5valve]

Thanks, just managed. YT video helped to pinpoint dowel location, so hitting at correct spot just below waterways made it come out.
True, seized dowel, but why? because bolt hole comes out on the inner case side, so water can come in.
Will need to rethink sealing that area.

[5valve]

Overhauled bike completely. New seals, retoequed bolts to correct spec. Wow, it is a noiseless engine.

While waiting for carb parts, went for a snowy ride, 20k's, mostly low to mid rpm, occasional short burst full throtthle.

N1EF #2
mj 168
pj 40
2 turns air.
It is much better than #3. Much less hickup when transiting to valve, and after clearing, it took longer to clog up again.
After ride, made a few full power passes and then 1mi slow ride home.
Pulled the spark, seems a tad lean. Its an old spark and was always black to wet black prior to that last ride. (have totaled only 4 rides)

[5valve]

While waiting for jets'n needle, did a ride with:
N1EF #1
168
42
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0A4...ature=youtu.be



Now, Jacob 'Bergs settings came in sooner, so today installed

CEK#3
175
38

Difference (quick test) is: more power everywhere, smoothed transition to valve, meaty torque.
Have yet to test it in real terrain.
On the other hand..its super LEAN, at least in hi rpm range.. So, Jacob, raising needle or giving a go to bigger main?