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Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke Jetting, Reeds, Air Filters, etc.


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Old 08-18-2013, 02:41 PM
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lgr lgr is offline
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Default Jetting beginner

I've just recently purchased a 2009 ec 300 and am attempting to learn a bit about jetting, mainly by searching this forum. Now, either not many folks had this model or I don't know how to use the search function. Probably the latter.

Here is the current setup

172 main
40pilot
2 and a fuzz on air screw
N1EF clip 2. (Now I'm wondering if it n1eg as I didn't write it down)
Idle screw is nearly bottomed out

Riding is done from 700 to 1500 ft in 50 to 80 F. It seems to have good power from the start but seems to load up after slower first and second gear trails. ( lugging with the lower end a lot) If on a road rolling on the throttle slowly there is no bog, but rapid acceleration it seems to be loaded up around mid throttle. Clears up quickly but something is obviously not right.

Please be patient with me as I haven't much (any) experience with jetting and have only had this bike for two rides

Also the very edges of two of the reed petals are starting to look chipped. There is still full contact with the cage though.


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Old 08-18-2013, 03:45 PM
Elvis74 Elvis74 is offline
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Check Out this Thread

http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2162
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:48 PM
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Double check which carb you have. AS1 is the deep bowl, 16mm float height, and round threaded cap. The AS2 is shorter, 6.5mm float height. and has a flat steel cap retained by 2 screws.

2007-2011 is very similar with exception to some plastics and the frame material. The carb model will have a more profound difference on the specs than the engine.
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:48 PM
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The top of the carb has two small screws. Remove them to remove the slide assembly.
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Old 08-19-2013, 12:33 AM
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AS2, just double check the number stamped on the top of the cap. It'll likely be a 38.

Lots of useful info, you want the float heights to be set around 7.5-8mm to limit overflow and overfuelling on downhills. The 300's generally like a J diameter needle with a 42 pilot. Depending on your preferences you may like a N3EJ/N3CJ available through both KTM and Yamaha dealers (shop for best prices) with a 178 main, or an NEDJ/NECJ Suzuki needle, with 172 main.

A quick search in the 2T carb and jetting section will give you more info on what you're after.
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:51 PM
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Got the nedj what needle position should be used? And will it work with 40 pilot?

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Old 08-22-2013, 02:57 AM
n_green n_green is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lgr View Post
Got the nedj what needle position should be used? And will it work with 40 pilot?

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Try 40pilot NEDJ clip 2 175 main. Should be ok for your temps and elevations. You may even be able to step down one on the main but start there to be safe.
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Old 08-24-2013, 06:33 PM
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Set the NEDJ on the second position, with 40 pilot and a 180 main for safety, air screw 2. Runs nice. Still loads up some after lugging but nothing like before.

Still waiting on new reed petals, hoping that cures the last of my bog in the low/mid transition.

I also checked my float level. With the carb level the needle just closes as the float seam disappears from view.

Can anyone offer further advice? And thank you for advice already offered.

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Old 08-24-2013, 07:26 PM
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180 is too rich for that needle unless you ride at sea level on 5deg C days with 10% humidity
Step it down to 175 and be amazed at the extra over rev you get. You could probably go down so far as 172/170 depending on where you ride and at what temps.

Air screw set at 2, is that where it needs to be set as per this advice http://youtu.be/zVzqqpgviyI

Set it as per the video if you haven't already. It could/should prevent some of the bogging/ loading up.

Float height refers to the distance from the top of the floats to the seam of the bowl when the float valve shuts off. Stock is 6.5mm you want it to be about 7.5mm. Easier way to measure is connect a hose to fuel inlet, blow through it and slowly shut off the valve (push the floats up into the carb body). When the valve closes (you can't blow through the hose anymore) measure the distance between the top of the floats to the bowl seam.
If that's too difficult just make sure it passes the 45 degree test (tilt bike over 45 degrees and make sure fuel doesn't leak out the overflow).
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:59 PM
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I'll double check my air screw tomorrow with slavens method but its pretty good on that initial crack from idle. Also idles very nice. I don't as yet have a very wide selection of mains, although it had a 172 in it.

What is the downside of being a little fat on the main? Almost none of my riding uses the last eighth to full throttle, and when on a long road run I never hold it pinned ever.

Also I tried the needle in the third position for fun and it was horrible.




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