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#1
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Bike stalling and lurching forward when I put it into gear...
Yes, the clutch was pulled in.
Here what happened. Ambient temp was in the 60's. My bike had been sitting since last weekend. I fired it up. Let it warm up. Made 3 passes up and down my street. Drove over to my neighbors and stalled it when I went to stop. I went to start the bike up in gear...and it lurched forward. Put it in neutral. Kicked it over, clicked down to first (with the clutch in) and it lurched forward and stalled out. I ended up pop starting it, driving the 100yards home with no issue. Stopped before putting the bike away and it idled just fine in any gear with the clutch pulled. I'm lost...were my clutch plates stuck? Is my clutch gone?
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2005 GasGas EC250 2012 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 w/ EPS |
#2
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Check the clutch baskets for notches on either side if the fingers ...Inspect the steels for warping by placing them on a flat piece of glass .. one or the other
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]| 2011 Gas Gas EC 300 Six Days ]| 2011 Gas Gas EC 200 Six Days ]| Team Chesapeake RV Solutions Gas Gas Racing ]| DUAL SPORT ARMORY Suspension ]| Hampton Roads HVAC.com Contracting "You mean I have to put oil on the gas too?" " Where is Kutcher ?" |
#3
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clutch
Try bleeding the clutch it might have just enough air that you dont get full release cold and once its warm you do
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#4
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Any good write ups on how to bleed the clutch? Of my mechanical abilities....bleeding brakes is my "Newman".
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2005 GasGas EC250 2012 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 w/ EPS |
#5
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When my bike sits for a long time mine will do the same thing.........sort of. When the gear box oil is cold my plates are stuck together, therefore lurching forward and sometimes stalling. If i let the bike get completely warm up, pulling in and releasing the clutch several times i will prevent the lurching.
I use Motul 2 stroke gear box oil, others use aft, etc,etc everyone has their own likes....and that is cool. After a warm up i can start my bike in gear. I bleed my clutch from the slave cylinder by putting a vacuum on the system.....using a syringe from one of those turkey injection kits, short clear plastic hose, put a loop in it, zip tie to the blender nipple and draw the fluid by creating a vacuum on the system. Remove the clutch master cylinder cover and keep it full at ALL times. I use this method on the front and rear brakes as well. I replace all my clutch and brake fluids yearly. The rear brake fluid can get pretty ugly as i drag my rear brakes. My 99 has seen it's share of abuse and when i put the newest clutch pack in the basket it looked pretty good, required very little massage in the basket fingers, very little grooves, but i am not hard on my clutch. Hope this helps and good luck.
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Rick 99 EC 200 06 RM 250 AMA D36 375X OTHG 375S ***Thanks for the support : Twin Air /O'Neil Racing / Race 100% / Matrix Concepts / ODI / Mika Metals |
#6
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Thanks Rick. I think I'll change up my gear oil for good measure.
I also think I know what you're describing for the clutch fluid bleed. I'm going to try to find someone local to help me out. Just to be safe.
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2005 GasGas EC250 2012 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 w/ EPS |
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