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  #1  
Old 11-29-2012, 08:10 PM
singletracker singletracker is offline
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Default 2012 vs. 2013

How much better is the 13? How much more is the 13 worth (both new)? Here are the upgrades that I can think of, but how much difference do they make in the real world?

1) 2013 better turning radius
2) 2013 better shroud mounts
3) 2013 plastic frame protectors vs stickers
4) 2013 lower seat height +_1/2"
5) 2013 improved subframe
6) 2013 back to AJP clutch
7) 2013 50th sprocket stock
8) 2013 has a smaller tank but it fits better
9) Anything else???

Numbers 1 and 4 are the most important items to me although a slightly larger tank would be nice.

How about this...how much better are they than the 2011 Race model with the 48mm Marzocchi forks?


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  #2  
Old 11-29-2012, 08:51 PM
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Clutch cover went from plastic back to metal
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  #3  
Old 11-29-2012, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singletracker View Post
How much better is the 13? How much more is the 13 worth (both new)? Here are the upgrades that I can think of, but how much difference do they make in the real world?

1) 2013 better turning radius
2) 2013 better shroud mounts
3) 2013 plastic frame protectors vs stickers
4) 2013 lower seat height +_1/2"
5) 2013 improved subframe
6) 2013 back to AJP clutch
7) 2013 50th sprocket stock
8) 2013 has a smaller tank but it fits better
9) Anything else???

Numbers 1 and 4 are the most important items to me although a slightly larger tank would be nice.

How about this...how much better are they than the 2011 Race model with the 48mm Marzocchi forks?
1) You can get most of the way there by removing the washers and inserting shorter-headed allen screws in the triple clamps, Stop when you hit the rads!
2) If you buy the 2013 lower you can adapt this to a '12 - cheap and effective
3) My preference is for the rubberized stick-ons, but to each his own. Why hide the cool frame?
4) Simple change of linkage pull-rods. Shock damping was also modified. The contoured seats allow easy ground access, but for absolute height the 2012 is taller than the 11's. The 13s walk most of that back.
5) That might be nice to have, but so would the alloy one shown on the Finnish bikes. My '12 has been plenty strong.
6) You can still buy the Magura from the Husaberg parts book
7) Didn't you bolt on a 50T Ironman anyway? Better gear spacing for the riding we do
8) Yep. The 2012s could be a bear on re-assembly. Glenn might trade you if you get a '13. Remember though "Stop at every available gas"
9) Clutch cover becomes magnesium perhaps? Better bodywork design. Slightly more difficult to access the carb (which the Smart Carb will eliminate the need for )

The '11 with the 48s was the high water mark for that chassis. The 12s and by extension 13s take the large bump absorption and stability to new levels while remaining very agile. Ground clearance is vastly improved over the 11s (and prior) both in the undercarriage and footpegs, and lots of little details like the footpeg-arc-to-brake pedal were attended to.

Spain has only continued to work the details on the new design making the 13 incrementally better than the 12, but the 12s were a sea change from the 11s (which were and remain great bikes in their own right).
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  #4  
Old 11-30-2012, 07:59 AM
singletracker singletracker is offline
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Thanks for all of the insight twowheels.

Based on the info you gave, I would guess it would cost $300-$400 to upgrade the 2012 to be close to the 2013 specs including the subframe. The 13 would probably still have a better set up shock since it was valved for the longer pull rods, but it should be close.

The 13 is probably a better deal considering resale unless smok'en deals are out there for the 12's.
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  #5  
Old 12-01-2012, 06:25 AM
Wimpy525 Wimpy525 is offline
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Think there is a change in the CDI, looks different anyways and the motor is a lot smoother from the low to the mid. Also the bars don't vibrate as much as the 12 did. Ive got about 20hrs on my 13 now.
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Old 12-01-2012, 05:26 PM
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I swapped out the JDI CDI box that came in my '12 for the Kokusan CDI in my '07. Funny I rode the '07 one day with the JDI box and it mysteriously died on the trail. Spark looked weak, then finally restarted after about ten minutes, classic thermal failure problem. Haven't ridden with it since, I don't trust the thing. Not all '12s have them, it was a alternate to get some bikes out when GG could not get the Kokusans in time. Now I need a CDI for my '07. I'm for Japaneese electronics over Itailian any day.
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Old 12-01-2012, 06:49 PM
fletchman45 fletchman45 is offline
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I had a dealer ( 2 different guys) sit on a 12 and a 13, and they could not feel any difference in seat height, so I am not sure if there is. I saved $900 on a 12 over a 13, but reality is I should NOT have listened to my wife and should have spent the $900 and got a 13. Most of the changes seem to be small and most of them seem as if they will readily bolt on to the 12 if needed (I want the frame guards for sure) very short time on my 12, but seems to turn just fine. I still do not understand the subframe improvement. Just that the seat does not use a undeneath bolt anymore. 12 almost looks better then a 13, just depends on the day I guess. Do the 12 shouds really pop off that easy in the woods??? I will find out. Shroud width is for sure not as wide as my Husky cr 150 (yes a box full of shrouds) says so!!! I also picked up a 2011 6-days (sold it to my buddy) when I got my 12 and the 11 seems almost barbaric next to the 12. I'm a short 5 ft 7 in fast guy. And the seat height feels just fine. Ground clearence is awesome compared to the old models. If the 13 has a different linkage to lower the seat height on a 12, I'm a bit skeptical about putting it on a 12 because of the shock specs. Anyone know if it is ok???? I'm stoked about this bike. I did not and have not seen where the 13 comes with a 50 tooth sprocket. But that is worth something. A 48 I think is NO good. And I had Halls throw on a 50 tooth rear sprocket and longer chain (stock one has no master link) as I did not want to lose any wheelbase at all!! I'm a sloppy rider and hit enough stuff I do not want my bike to feel twitchy. Gas tank size mean ALOT to me.
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  #8  
Old 12-01-2012, 06:52 PM
fletchman45 fletchman45 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twowheels View Post
1) You can get most of the way there by removing the washers and inserting shorter-headed allen screws in the triple clamps, Stop when you hit the rads!
2) If you buy the 2013 lower you can adapt this to a '12 - cheap and effective
3) My preference is for the rubberized stick-ons, but to each his own. Why hide the cool frame?
4) Simple change of linkage pull-rods. Shock damping was also modified. The contoured seats allow easy ground access, but for absolute height the 2012 is taller than the 11's. The 13s walk most of that back.
5) That might be nice to have, but so would the alloy one shown on the Finnish bikes. My '12 has been plenty strong.
6) You can still buy the Magura from the Husaberg parts book
7) Didn't you bolt on a 50T Ironman anyway? Better gear spacing for the riding we do
8) Yep. The 2012s could be a bear on re-assembly. Glenn might trade you if you get a '13. Remember though "Stop at every available gas"
9) Clutch cover becomes magnesium perhaps? Better bodywork design. Slightly more difficult to access the carb (which the Smart Carb will eliminate the need for )

The '11 with the 48s was the high water mark for that chassis. The 12s and by extension 13s take the large bump absorption and stability to new levels while remaining very agile. Ground clearance is vastly improved over the 11s (and prior) both in the undercarriage and footpegs, and lots of little details like the footpeg-arc-to-brake pedal were attended to.

Spain has only continued to work the details on the new design making the 13 incrementally better than the 12, but the 12s were a sea change from the 11s (which were and remain great bikes in their own right).
You seem to be the Gas Gas guru and thank you for your posts!!
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  #9  
Old 12-01-2012, 11:16 PM
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twowheels twowheels is offline
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We do what we can

FWIW the 10.5l tank fitted to the 2012 has the following molded in the side:

BE75-00001-3012

I emptied 2.5 gal in the previously dry tank with plenty of room to spare.
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  #10  
Old 12-02-2012, 06:43 PM
fletchman45 fletchman45 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singletracker View Post
Thanks for all of the insight twowheels.

Based on the info you gave, I would guess it would cost $300-$400 to upgrade the 2012 to be close to the 2013 specs including the subframe. The 13 would probably still have a better set up shock since it was valved for the longer pull rods, but it should be close.

The 13 is probably a better deal considering resale unless smok'en deals are out there for the 12's.
Would probably cost more then that because a guy would need a seat and a new clutch cover to. I saved $900 over a 13 and I am still not sure it was a smart thing to do!! Darn wife. The turning thing does not seem like it matters to me. Hec a linkage rod the clutch cover and the seat are probably 3 or 4 hundred. Not sure if the 12 magura or the 13 with the old supplier is better. 12 has excel wheels 13 has something else. The radiators are made in spain??????That surprized me. I'm sure the changes are very minimal and a guy should be able to ride either a 12 or 13 as fast as the other as most importand specs are the same!
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