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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #81  
Old 03-07-2012, 02:28 PM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasgasec200 View Post
Hey guys my english is not very good so I dont understand everything.

But I need help, I have a boring sound when I gas the bike up, you know sounds like a bolt is not tighten...
And someone said check the valves and now I read this..

Ehm, your pictures, that springthing is touching the bolt, IS IT SUPPOSED TO TOUCH the bolt or not?
And if it does I guess I have a freeplay downthere, maybe thats why it sounds lame ?

thanks guys .

btw, do I need to put shims down there or just adjust that bolt u guys showed downthere?

edit: his pics is on side 6, in the start..
Post 78 by GGEVO shows a PV with slop. Notice the plate not touching the bolt. It will make the bottom end soft.

This is how it should look.
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  #82  
Old 03-07-2012, 02:47 PM
gasgasec200 gasgasec200 is offline
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Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
Post 78 by GGEVO shows a PV with slop. Notice the plate not touching the bolt. It will make the bottom end soft.

This is how it should look.
ok thanks much.
Ok so it's not allowed to touch the bolt ? Maybe thats why its strange sound with full gas ?
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  #83  
Old 03-07-2012, 07:19 PM
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The picture I posted shows the powervalve in the fully closed position. (With the actuator arm disconnected as the cylinder is off the bike in the pic). The arm is to connect to the pin, with the plate in the position shown in my pic.

You can run the bike with the cover off and watch the plate move in its action. The main thing here is to note that it should be fully closed at idle (up against the bolt), and swing around as the revs increase, hitting full open in the upper rpm (other side of plate against the bolt).

Also, if you disconnect the actuator arm from the plate you should be able to manually move the plate in its motions. It should glide smooth and easily in both directions. If you have any binding or resistance you'll need to service the PV assembly.

Special note: Don't try to move the plate around with the arm attached. It will dislodge a ball lower in setup and stop the system working.

Last edited by Jakobi; 03-07-2012 at 07:23 PM. Reason: ..more
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  #84  
Old 03-07-2012, 07:31 PM
Zhack Zhack is offline
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Default Arm Binding

Check the clearance of the pushrod to the opening from PV chamber down to cylinder. Mine (and others were) binding here preventing the arm making full contact to the stopper. I had to remove my PV actuator rod and bend a "jog" in it to prevent it binding . Works great now.
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  #85  
Old 03-08-2012, 02:42 AM
gasgasec200 gasgasec200 is offline
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Originally Posted by Zhack View Post
Check the clearance of the pushrod to the opening from PV chamber down to cylinder. Mine (and others were) binding here preventing the arm making full contact to the stopper. I had to remove my PV actuator rod and bend a "jog" in it to prevent it binding . Works great now.
Ok thanks guys very much.

But you havent answered my question, at least not full of it

that thing I will "bend" little, can that thing make the sound because of touching the bolt??

Damn I'm useless in english sry guys but I try...
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  #86  
Old 03-08-2012, 04:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasgasec200 View Post
Hey guys my english is not very good so I dont understand everything.

But I need help, I have a boring sound when I gas the bike up, you know sounds like a bolt is not tighten...
And someone said check the valves and now I read this..

Ehm, your pictures, that springthing is touching the bolt, IS IT SUPPOSED TO TOUCH the bolt or not?
And if it does I guess I have a freeplay downthere, maybe thats why it sounds lame ?

thanks guys .

btw, do I need to put shims down there or just adjust that bolt u guys showed downthere?

edit: his pics is on side 6, in the start..
Sorry, Kind of misunderstanding the question a little bit. The plate is meant to touch the bolt in the fully closed position, and again at the other extreme of the fully open. If its loose and not touching the bolt when closes it can rattle and make noise, but more so at idle and the power will be soft/weak.

If you hear a noise when revving the engine then it could be the exhaust rubbing on the flange which will stop if replacing the o-rings. Push the pipe with your boot and see if it still makes the noise.
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  #87  
Old 03-08-2012, 04:40 AM
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PS. Post a pic, or even video would be better. It might help bridge the language barrier a bit
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  #88  
Old 03-08-2012, 05:50 AM
gasgasec200 gasgasec200 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
PS. Post a pic, or even video would be better. It might help bridge the language barrier a bit
Thanks for helping me.

I will post pics when I've come so far, atm I'm changing bearings and "rod", the piston is in that rod thing u know

Hopefully I get it all today so I can put all things together so I will come back do u guys later.

But one more thing.

I've seen u guys putting schims down on the PV thing, is it nessescery or can I just lose the bolt down there and fix it that way so there is no "extra" room?
thanks
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  #89  
Old 03-08-2012, 08:56 PM
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Haven't read whole thread, just be aware to melt nylock nut before trying to remove that nut that holds the wire linkage in pic. They are only m4 & like to shear off, that is a pain but repairable. I forgot last time.

No shims, just loosen & readjust lever in cases. Becomes obvious when you do it but the thread help with pics.
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  #90  
Old 03-09-2012, 03:12 PM
Gasserguy250 Gasserguy250 is offline
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I can move the rod with my hand From closed to open very easy, does this mean I have probs? If so whats gone wrong and how can I sort this? Manythanks....
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