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Enduro Electrical & Wiring Lighting, Ignition, Wiring, Plugs, etc.


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  #11  
Old 12-29-2013, 12:05 PM
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FastFast FastFast is offline
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Moto, do you know if this stuff fits a 2013? I'll like to "legalize" my bike with OEM parts. Did you have part numbers?


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  #12  
Old 12-29-2013, 12:50 PM
Moto7man Moto7man is offline
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I'm not sure about your 2013. If your 2013 was an estart I would say yes. All my parts were oem. If you call Motocross Center ask for Antonio, he selected all the parts. Just make sure that you request oem. My conversion was simple plug and play. It consisted of two front turn signals, horn, and the rear fender extension which included turn signals, tag light,brake light. That is it. All the oem conectors plunged into the stock wiring harness. The various plugs were sized to match the connectors in the wiring harness.

Worst case scenario you may have to buy a wiring harness or extension with a few extra parts.
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  #13  
Old 12-29-2013, 02:34 PM
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Excellent, mine is an e-start. What did the whole "legal" kit cost you? and it's this place right? http://www.motocrosscenter.com/
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  #14  
Old 12-29-2013, 05:10 PM
Moto7man Moto7man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastFast View Post
Excellent, mine is an e-start. What did the whole "legal" kit cost you? and it's this place right? http://www.motocrosscenter.com/
Yeah, that is the right place. It wasn't very much. I want to say around 200 with shipping but I can't really remember bc I bought a lot of other stuff.
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  #15  
Old 12-30-2013, 12:02 PM
nplasson nplasson is offline
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my 2013 300 estart does not have a harness with the additional connectors for turn signals (does have plate light connector though) so ou may need a different harness as well
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  #16  
Old 02-15-2014, 09:52 PM
nplasson nplasson is offline
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Ok so this has been a journey.... I will post all the details once I get things sorted out but short story is Sicass plug and play kit did not match up with a 2013 300 E-Start. So being that I am electrically challenged and was hoping or a plug and play option I decided to get some stuff from GoFasters. Well the auxiliary harness for turn signals doesn't seem to match up with my stock main harness... nor does the 2013 control... so I have decided to create my own auxiliary harness (recall I am electrically challenged). So in my first attempt I am taking power straight off the battery and grounding back to battery. I do have working lights (high and low beams) and horn working (used a Tusk universal control). Turn signals come on but will not blink. I am using stock GasGs turn signals as well as my stock headlight. My question is... when I come off the battery then go to the flasher relay (it is a GasGas Leonelli flasher) do I need a regulator somewhere ? From the flasher relay I go directly to the signal controls and then to the turn signals themselves. All grounds are tied together and back to battery. I am trying to determine if the flasher is bad or does it need a regulator since I am bypassing the existing main harness? Or am I missing something else? Any way any suggestions or guidance appreciated. I was pretty happy to get working lights and horn but turn signals are driving me crazy.
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Ned
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  #17  
Old 02-15-2014, 10:35 PM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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Try hooking up the battery + flasher + one pair of signal lights. This should let you verify that the flasher works. You might need to experiment with the flasher connections. Usually power goes to the flasher then to the turn signal switch. Each switch position directs power out to the specific pair of turn lamps.

Simple flashers are bimetallic devices that heat up when the bulbs draw current. Once the device heats up, the contact springs apart. Then cooling takes place until the contact makes again. Electronic types are more involved.

I didn't mount signals on my bike, so I don't have any specific info. How many terminals are on the flasher? 2 terminal units are basic, 3 terminal units have an internal relay. Keep in mind that most flashers require a defined load to function at the right speed. LED bulbs often need a resistor added so there is enough draw to make the flasher work.

No need for a regulator or other device; you've got battery voltage.
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Old 02-15-2014, 11:35 PM
nplasson nplasson is offline
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Thank you Neil for the quick reply. And thank you for confirming no need of regulator. The flasher relay is a 3 prong relay (and I believe based on the diagram for the model I found online that there is power in, power out to turn signal control, and ground). So I go from battery to fuse to flasher to control switch to signals. I did disconnect one set (rear) of signals and still same situation - lights go on but don't flash. The turn signals are not LED. I am going to double check that the bulbs are correct and that the ground connection in the signals look good. I was thinking it was the relay but it is brand new (of course it could be bad from factory). I did purchase a generic 12v 8-23w 3 prong. I have tried it but I am blowing fuses as soon as I connect with that flasher. Either it is not a compatible flasher or I may have things connected incorrectly (as mentioned electrical is not a strong skill of mine) although the diagrams I can find for this cheap flasher lead me to believe I have the in and out power correct. I will re-check all connections in the AM to see if I have something mixed up. Any other thoughts?
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  #19  
Old 02-16-2014, 12:50 PM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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There are a few types of 3 prong flashers. It's the larger electronic ones that have the internal relay. Let's assume you've got a simple 3 prong style. Are the terminals labeled? The more common unit has X, L and P markings (as opposed to X, L and L). The important terminals are the X and L.

X goes to the 12v supply and L goes to the load through the turn signal switch. Look at the attached diagram. The P terminal is for a dash indicator which you don't necessarily need. Can you find a manufacturer's circuit diagram specific to the flasher you have?
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  #20  
Old 02-16-2014, 12:59 PM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nplasson View Post
I did purchase a generic 12v 8-23w 3 prong. I have tried it but I am blowing fuses as soon as I connect with that flasher.
I don't see any reason to ground a flasher terminal (basic type of flasher). In my experience a ground is only used on an external relay driven by a flasher. This is for heavy trucks where a relay is needed to carry the large load of many bulbs.
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