2012 -- Bent Kickstand Bolt AGAIN

[barossi73]

grease action and generously red Loctite it with the bolt TIGHT,until it makes action quite stiff.try not to Loctite stand to bolt!.solves the auto retract as a bonus and u will notice if it comes loose straight away!mine came loose 3x when loctited with free action.no probs in last 30hrs with bolt tight.the action has loosened a little but bolt remains tight so far.its the difference between depending entirely on the Loctite to hold,or having the bolt tight,and loctd.my stand is used often too,as have a lot of farmgates and I rarely use the rubber loop.its worth a try and may mean u don't have to get the welder and angle grinder out!IMO the shoulder bolt is the next best option if this fails,as you can get the bolt tight without binding action and its thicker diameter will be less likely to bend.the ultimate fix is to weld a flange on outside to support a shoulder bolt,dont know about u all though but the thought of taking the welder/grinder to my baby makes me feel a little sick!still find myself checking it every ride though...shifty wee bstard!

[barossi73]

well the inevitable happened.stand has been working freely,bolt was still tight since nipped up with loctite @20hrs but it snapped anyway!frankly im surprised it hadnt happened sooner.for the record i carefully got 95hrs out of the original bolt,which was a good deal more than i expected!
think il try and drill spacer out and fit a stepped bolt unless there is now an aftermarket option?

[barossi73]

after resisting the urge to apply 550f to release red loctite and destroying all paint/plastics in the vicinity,i soaked in wd40 overnight.then drilled 4mm right thru bolt thread.next i raided the lovely ones pantry and snuck the 'creme brulee' butane torch out to the garage and aimed it in the hole...got pretty hot but not hot enough...broke ezy out no1..(had drilled all the way thru so could tap broken tip out from back)
drilled out to 5mm,repeat wd40/brulee method.ezout came up tight,tighter,snap!
after much handwringing interspersed with some choice expletives i opted for a 'clevis' bolt right through.
drilled lug completely out to 8mm(stand spacer inner dia.)
found an 8mm hex bolt with enough unthreaded shaft to go thru both lug and almost thru stand.
because there is not enough space for a normal nut inside the lug(clearance to chain),i took the hex bolt and cut half the head thickness off with a cutting disc so i could insert bolt from the inside to out and slightly domed the head on the bench grinder.
an unfortunate side effect of this was the hex in bolthead got cutoff,so i sawed a small flat slot across the top for a screwdriver.
in the absence of a 12mm nylok i temporarily used the old school method of locking two nuts together tight(very effective)locking position with just a little tension on the assembly,but this gets a little close to fouling boot and would be better with a single nut.washer both sides of stand
i would have liked to save the thread in the lug but the end result is reasonable(once the 2nd nut is gone)
upside is 8mm smooth bolt rightthrough instead of the threaded stock(effectively 6mm shaft).also the steel bush in the stand no longer pivots on the thread.
downside is ugly nut on outside/juts out more,may get sloppy,but an outer tab could still be added(maybe a c clip/clevis pin for low profile)

[shang]

I have over 100 hours on my stock kickstand setup and haven't really had a problem. The bike did fall over once in soft soil on the kickstand and bent the bolt a little but it has been fine otherwise. I do have a plastic foot on the bottom of the kickstand so the bike sits a little more upright and has a greater surface area to not fall again hopefully. Other than that, I use my kickstand quite a bit on the trails. In the garage I use a bike stand. Maybe the difference is the bigger kickstand foot?

[hamilton]

I haven't broken the bolt on my 12's yet, but my plan is to upgrade to the larger 14/15 kick stand bolt. Would just require drill and tap frame lug to install.

[barossi73]

There is very little spare thickness in the steel sleeve insert of stand to drill out.this limits how big a bolt will fit.
Believe me,if I could have saved thread I would have!
With the original thread the only way to strengthen would be a shoulder bolt (or weld outer flange),however the steel insert would be paperthin after drilling to suit.you would need the later stand leg also I think,with larger dia insert
Lots of gates around here,the stand gets plenty of use!

[hamilton]

Got ya, so I also need a larger press fit bushing to mod the stand for the larger bolt. Easy enough to do. good to know.

[barossi73]

1 other minor detail-the outer washer sits in recess in stand leg.had to drill 8mm hole thru a washer small enough to fit...if you choose to fit one

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by shang

I have over 100 hours on my stock kickstand setup and haven't really had a problem. The bike did fall over once in soft soil on the kickstand and bent the bolt a little but it has been fine otherwise. I do have a plastic foot on the bottom of the kickstand so the bike sits a little more upright and has a greater surface area to not fall again hopefully. Other than that, I use my kickstand quite a bit on the trails. In the garage I use a bike stand. Maybe the difference is the bigger kickstand foot?

Me too! I took it off and put it in the spares box.

It is a pain having to look for a tree or rut all the time, but really it's not that bad. Worst case I turn the fuel off and lay it over for a rest.

[barossi73]

Too many gates,got to have it!in the tight i will lay it down running sometimes to clear a branch.will idle for a bit on a pretty decent angle.makes me wonder if float level can be ballparked by the angle at which fuel starts to overflow?