Mileage

PEB · #1 08-16-2009, 10:20 PM

I am only getting around 18-20 mpg. I am tired of strapping gallon jugs to my hips to finish 80 mile loops. I will look into the jetting tonight and see what it is. I have just run it since i bought it and it runs so good I am hesitant to change anything. What are others getting for mileage

reiterrider · #2 08-16-2009, 10:35 PM

My recent riding has been mountain riding with lots of long climbs, mostly 2-4 gear riding. I did a 55 miler last week and had 1/3 tank left over. I'm sure the previous ride was between 70 and 80 and it was down to the last 2"
2003 EC250

mountain thumper · #3 08-16-2009, 10:35 PM

strapping gallons to your belt is a scary thought!

i got about that on my 07 300, max of 30 if i babied it..
my 250 i havent even put a tank of gas through it yet since i got it, so i cant even guess.

my solution was walmart. they had camelback type packs for $16, good for holding water on rides, but on the inside there are 2 big pockets, with 3 water bottle pockets inside of them.
ive got a bunch of old kerosene containers(aluminum, twist on cap with a caribeaner clip) i just fill these up and pack em in the pack with a small tool kit.

reiterrider · #4 08-16-2009, 10:39 PM

Here are my new settings:
Bike year & model = 2003 EC-250
Temperature (degF) =50f - 85f
Elevation (feet) =0-3500
Main jet = 175
Pilot jet =42
Needle & notch = DDK 3rd clip
Air screw setting = 2
Throttle valve/slide = #6

Installed new Power valve cover from Gofasters.com

This is my second set up for my bike
I purchased the bike in January of 2009. I have a solid 7 months of riding with 3-4 rides a month and 2-6 hours of riding each ride.
I went from a 40 pilot to a 42 and a EG needle to a DDK.
Can you say transformational?
This changed the bike in several ways:
It wheelies without hardly trying, yet it's very controllable.
It's still super linear, but has throttle when you need it.
When I'm in tight gnarly stuff, it keeps the front end light. So instead of pushing through the rough terrain, it floats over it creating a smoother ride.

rpduc · #5 08-17-2009, 08:08 AM

I can't provide exact numbers as I just recently added an odometer and I'm not into math

... but...

I will say that my mileage improved greatly after Ron Black did his carb mod. The thing used to absolutely suck fuel, almost double what my buddies EC 250 did over the same terrain. The head mod is also touted to help with fuel consumption. That's next on my list.

I'd say my mileage is similar to Howie's. Last enduro was 50 miles and I'd guess I might have made close to 80 miles by the looks of fuel left. Stock 9 liter tank.

Quote:

I have just run it since i bought it and it runs so good I am hesitant to change anything.

Food for thought... You won't necessarily know "good" until you've known something better.

More food for thought... How's your float level. Ever notice fuel draining out when on the side stand? How about dumping it or crashing. One can lose a LOT of fuel that way...

PEB · #6 08-17-2009, 10:07 AM

This is what I found in the carb

42 pilot
178 main
N7EF needle in the second clip from the top.
Air screw one turn out
Float set to start closing when the body is parralell to the body of the carb.

The carb was said to have been worked over by RB. The airscrew seems to far closed to me and I am guessing one of my "friends" may have adjusted it for me. I think I will start by backing the air screw out and adjusting the idle next time I ride. Semms like my old 300 had a 40 pilot in them which I may try as well.

Paul

rpduc · #7 08-17-2009, 04:19 PM

If RB did the full meal deal there will be a divider plate in the throat of the carb among other things. He put a CEK needle in mine so I don't know about the RB claim...

He sends a "tuning procedure" document along with the carb that basically says this. DON'T set the air screw for max idle speed. With the bike warm set it so when you crank it open from idle it does not bog or sputter. 1/16 turns are enough to affect a change with the opened air circuit. Then go out and with the bike in second idling down the trail crank it open. If it stumbles or sputters lean it out 1/16 turn at a time until it disappears. If it bogs do the opposite.

PEB · #8 08-17-2009, 04:31 PM

It has the plate for sure I don't dout it has the mod. I wish I wouls have started this thread in the jetting/ intake section where it belongs.

Eric K · #9 08-18-2009, 08:22 AM

Paul,

The key things I have found for fuel economy are...

1) RB designs head mod

2) Proper jetting

3) maintain cornering speed

Trail riding, I usually get in 24-30 mpg when I am riding at a fast pace flowing keeping cornering speed up. My best was just over 31 mpg.

When I ride with my 7 yr old son (at a much slower pace) fuel mileage is in the low 20's mpg.

Make sure your float height is set to the low side as you can drain a lot of fuel on the ground. With the float set to spec, fuel will drain out the overflow when the bike is going down hill at ~30 degrees or steeper.

For trail riding I have had the best results with a CCK needle. The triple taper needles (N series) are richer a low throttle settings, typically resulting in more fuel consumption.

The RB Designs head mod improves prerformance and increases fuel mileage. It is one of the best mods in my book.

GMP · #10 08-18-2009, 09:25 AM

Thread moved.

+1 on the head mod. My '03 250 was a pig on gas and I ran out twice in enduros with a lot of sand. The head mod really cleaned things up and changed the bike. A lot depends on where all the tolerances fall with your bike. I'm afraid to do anything to my '07 as its jetted and runs great as is.