#21
|
|||
|
|||
I'm happy with the tubeliss setup. The only issues have been 1) high pressure tube needs watching as it bleeds down gradually and 2) takes a lot of weight to balance. I would prefer the high pressure stem and low pressure stem to be 180* apart.
__________________
2011 EC250E |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
Interesting ... this possibly explains why my front feels like it is bouncing along on the tar, how do you go about balancing a tire?
__________________
2003 txt250 Pro 2013 Ossa 280i |
#23
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Per instructions-always check BOTH valves before each ride, I have never balanced my tires anyway. They recommend stems to be within 4 spokes of each other to prevent damage but I've never quizzed Jeff about this BTW Jeff's customer service is as good as it gets, he & Clay went to the same school
__________________
Fred Overstreet 2010 EC250 SixDays 2004 GasGas EC300 -Sold to a good home 2006 GasGas EC250-Sold to a good home 2006 GasGas TXT 280 Pro |
#24
|
||||
|
||||
Have you ever tried a Michelen M12XC or S12XC? What about MX71?
__________________
Rick 99 EC 200 06 RM 250 AMA D36 375X OTHG 375S ***Thanks for the support : Twin Air /O'Neil Racing / Race 100% / Matrix Concepts / ODI / Mika Metals |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
The Tubeliss system has both stems a short distance apart (stock had the rim lock 180* from the valve stem). With both stems close, there is a fair imbalance. You don't need to get too fussy balancing a dirt bike wheel. I clamped a piece of 5/8" ground shaft in a bench vise. Shaft horizontal (checked with a level), sticking out past the end of the bench far enough to slide the wheel over. Turn the wheel slowly in each direction and see where it stops. The heavy spot will be down; mark the top of the rim. You will have two marks, one for forward and one for backward. Between these will be your light spot that needs weight added. You can wrap heavy plumbing solder (soild core) around the spoke and tape over it when done (probably need to put it on three adjacent spokes to get enough weight). Try more spins forward and backward, when it's close enough the wheels stops anywhere (no more definite heavy spot). You could do it on the bike, but bearing and seal friction will prevent you from getting good results. I found that the ground shaft allowed the inner races to slide over the shaft so there was no friction loss to cause trouble. I'm sure there are more professional ways to do the job, but I'll never go more than 80 kph so perfection isn't necessary.
__________________
2011 EC250E |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
As to tires I use a Michelin S12 on the rear and Michelin M12 on the front (or a Michelin MS3 Starcross on the front).
__________________
2011 EC250E |
#27
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#28
|
||||
|
||||
Jeff is awesome. I run MT16s with good results. The sidewalls break down internally though if you try and push them too long. Vee Rubber has a van at most of our races, I think Jeff Melik runs them too. Might try a set.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD |
#29
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
trevor |
#30
|
||||
|
||||
It's because the bead is held to the rim much more securely by the 110 psi liner, for a full 360 deg., not just at one rim lock location. The flex pattern is different as the tire does not move from the rim at low pressure. Here, in the gnarly rocks and slick stuff, a softer front that sticks and won't flat is huge. Also consider trail side repairs. If you do flat, from a tear of puncture from a small sharp rock, it's an easy fix with some plugs and your off.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Studded Tires? | sam | Enduro Chassis & Body | 6 | 01-18-2013 02:50 PM |
Winter tires | GMP | Enduro Chassis & Body | 25 | 12-17-2011 07:40 AM |
IRC tires | Bailey28 | Enduro Chassis & Body | 13 | 03-28-2011 09:27 PM |
110/90-18 vs. 120/90-18 rear tires | Kurdt | Enduro Chassis & Body | 3 | 06-22-2010 07:12 PM |