#61
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I'm running 7.5w oil at 105mm. Used to run with 110mm but this works better against bottoming.
Where in the compression valve is the bleed shim? Could try removing that one to see how it feels. Need to measure my preload aswell but I doubt it's even close to 7mm. Gotta check it out this weekend. Thanks for the tips! |
#62
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It's the first shim in the comp stack, it sit's against the piston. If it has a bleed shim, it will be a smaller diameater than the piston, so it does'nt quite cover the holes in the piston. Check out my pic's in this thred, it shows what I thought to be a bleed shim. You can see the patern of the piston on the shim. Also diferent springs have diferent pre load tubes, is it possible that someone may have change the spring in the past and may not have the correct tube in it? I think the lenths are listed in the online manual.
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#63
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Ok, I didn't have the time this weekend to check the shim stack but I quicly measured the sag settings and they were the following:
Front: Static sag: 3.7 cm. Race sag: 6.3 cm. Rear: Statis sag: 3 cm. Race Sag: 8.8 cm. Notice that these settings were measured without any gear on, with the gear the rear race sag would be around 95mm. Maybe should loosen it up a bit to about 100mm. So atleast for the forks the soft feeling doesn't come from too soft springs but do you think the preload is good, judging from the static sag or would it help to increase preload? |
#64
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Just been reading your thread from the start. Very interesting.
Excuse my bad oxford english. May be someone can give me some help to adjust (valve Stack) my Shiver 45 2006. I also read the many other thread to this problem, but no solution for my problem. The response is very good. But in the sand and on deep rutted corners it feel very "spongy". I can't get a good line in the corner and the front is pulling. When I have to brake before a corner the fork is dipping to much, when there are also some bumps it got worse. The bike feels very instable. I think a need more compression. Specs. my weight wo. wear 85kg = 187 lbs I use Springs 5 N/mm ( I know I can't make a fork harder with harder springs - I will change them against 4,5 N/mm). I'm running SAE 5 Motul Oil at 100mm 5mm Preload Basevalve Stack original EC 250 11x0.20 22x0.10 11x0.20 19x0.10 17x0.10 11x0.10 16x0.10 16x0.10 15x0.15 14x0.15 14x0.15 13x0.20 12x0.20 rebound stack original 21x0.10 19x0.10 17x0.10 15x0.10 For more compression I think I have to change the basevalve stack. Some recommadations? Klaus from L.E. |
#65
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I'd remove the bleed shim (11x0.20) and maybe double upon the face shim?
Are you getting enough rebound control with that stack and the SEA 5 oil? |
#66
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Is no one addressing the midvalve?
Anyway, here go's 200 lb rider, vet expert level, 08 GG300 I ride single track only, pretty nasty rooted, greasy stuff, lots of logs and elevation changes, No MX or jumping. When I first road the bike in our trail system, I couldn't get the front tire to grip the roots...everything was a deflection and the rear was skating as well. I have the bike tracking well now and it's way way plusher. My speeds have increased quite a bit because I have more confidence dodging trees and pigs. I can't post anything about the fork valving yet, that is until I go back in for a service...I somehow lost my spec sheet. But here's what I did to the shock...and my disclaimer is that this is a work in progress, so far I'm really liking it...but that's me, I'm not recomending this set-up, just posting what I did. Also the shock spring change was too 1 rate heavier than stock, which I thought was a 5.5 I didn't have many shims on hand so I mostly worked with what was in the stacks. On the forks I used a dia-grinder on the ID of some showa shims to get them to fit...which seemed to work ok. 08 GG ec 300 Sachs shock valving 5.5-STOCK TO 5.6 SPRING / ADDED A BLADDER KIT / 2.5-W OIL/ NITRO @ 175 PSI DIA-THICKNESS-QUANT _________________________________ COMP stock 44X22(5) 38X15 36X15 42X20 40x20 38x20 34X20 32X20 30X20 28X20 25X20 22X20 comp new stack 44X20 (4) 38X15 36X15 42X20 40X20 36x20 32x20 28x20 22x20 REBOUND stock 38X25 (3) 38X30 36X30 34X30 32X30 30X30 28X30 26X30 22X25 18X30 rebound new 38x25 (3) 38x30 36x30 38x20 34x30 32x30 30x30 28x30 26x30 25x25 22x30 18x30 |
#67
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Quote:
I thought the bleed shim is more importend. In older Gasgas with Marz 45 there is the face shim 21x0,1. There bleeds on the edge, or? What happens when I change the 22x0.1 face shim --> 2 x 21x0,1. Quote:
I also read the post from pobit and he change the stack to more rebound. I have to order these shims and will try it. Last edited by Klausen; 11-23-2009 at 12:34 AM. |
#68
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OK time for an update.
For those of you in the UK and read TBM, errr yes................that was me! I had a day with DR Shox suspension tuner, at his test track in Suffolk. ner Rendlesham forrest. I had a good test, but we only made basic clicker and sag adjustments. But it was good to just ride to test different settings and see how it changed things. It's fair to say, I learnt allot, both about suspension set up and my ridding. I came away with some things to try as Dr Shox suggested. 1, Changing the oil weight to to 5w oil - tried it, it was sh!t. changed it back before I refitted the forks to the bike, couldn't get anywhere near enough rebound. 2, Oil hight reduce to 140mm air gap - This improved things and got me the full travel of the fork, but still sometimes kicked over logs or rocks. 3, Reduce spring preload spacers - NOW THIS IS THE INTERESTING BIT he said it was ok to run no pre load on the springs. OK, I had 7mm in one leg and 12mm in the other Checked it before, but only found 7mm. The two spacer were different sizes So I turned them both down so I now have 0-1mm preload. And it feels allot better, no deflection or kicking now Now my rebound setting is in the middle of the adjustments, but my comp is 4 clicks from full soft, not ideal. I've been told by DrShox that my comp shim stack looks to be quite soft. This is what I have..... 1, 22x1.0 2, 12x1.0 3, 20x1.0 4, 12x1.0 5, 17x1.0 6, 16x1.0 7, 14x1.0 8, 13x1.0 9, 12x1.0 Now my question is, if this is a soft stack and i'm near the limit of adjustment, whats restricting my Comp adjustment? This is my only thought......... In my Comp valve the piston and shim stack is bolted to the housing, in the manual it shows it mounted on a stud retained by a nut? If you can see in the pic, the shim stack is closely mounted to the housing. Could this be restricting the movement/deflection on the shims? It's the last thing I can think of! |
#69
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Nick: I'll have a noodle on the valve stack a little this weekend, but for now I'll agree that the compression stack is retained by a stepped and hollow screw.
The shim stack sits on a 2.25mm high pedestal. By comparison the last KYB set I measured had a 6.0mm pedestal. The deflection of the shims is negligible as they taper towards the bottom, so the 2.25mm is more than enough clearance. Happy Easter. Quote:
__________________
Steven Beane #275 PlusOnePerformance - Superior Service the World Over - Dearborn MI AMA District 14 (Michigan) Officer afterhourscycle.com Michigan's Beta and TM Race Headquarters |
#70
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Quote:
I agree 2.25 would work better, but my shim stack compresses directly to the ally housing, which is about 16mmOD, not sure if you can see that in the pic clearly? What is the diameter of the 2.25mm pedestal that the shim stack sits on? Thanks for your help, I feel like i'm almost there!!! Have a good easter |
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