Diving into the Sachs 48mm forks - wish me luck?

[GMP]

For base valve work, grind the lead in taper off your sockets(six point of course) for maximum contact.

[Simmo737]

Jake, just send the bible straight to Nathan, he'll need it more.

If you are going to start with the base valve settings I used, because you have the extra shims, go to about 65 percent the size of the face shim for the crossover shim and that should work better.

Stuff will be sent Monday, cheers

[n_green]

Originally Posted by Simmo737

Jake, just send the bible straight to Nathan, he'll need it more.

If you are going to start with the base valve settings I used, because you have the extra shims, go to about 65 percent the size of the face shim for the crossover shim and that should work better.

Stuff will be sent Monday, cheers

Thanks mate. I actually purchased the bible last night from RMATV and its already been posted so no need to send it to me. Not only that but my money would be on the parcel from them beating a parcel from Jake here. Good old Australia 'take our time' post

Simmo did you ever crack the cartridge?

[Simmo737]

Nope, you can get in the end with a tbar but I don't recommend it. ( I was advised by a local respected susp turner, i reckon they have tbars drilled with moveable rod down the middle or something like that!) Try and get the cart apart, so you can be more accurate with float on the mid valve.

[swazi_matt]

this is the tool i made, have used it for putting on and removing base valve, pretty sure it would work to loosen the cartridge as well, and should also break before the cartridge gets damaged. PM me your email and i will send you a pdf template to assist with cutting it

[n_green]

Pulled the forks apart today, they needed servicing so while I was at it I pulled the base valve and the cartridge out for a look see.



The base valve stack is identical to Simmo's thread here.

[n_green]

I tried for a long while to undo the cartridge, HOLY CRAP these are tight. Matt thanks again for sending me the template, unfortunately it was different to what I needed, my spring land only has 4 posts:



I made my own tool with PVC pipe but it's too weak to lock the cartridge to undo it. Half heartedly tried a few different things, along with heat but ultimately I failed to get the cartridge undone. I've made up a template so I can make something up out of metal which should be strong enough.

Next problem is the best way to undo the bottom of the cartridge when it is locked. How is this done? I'm tempted to stick a bit of 6mm rod through the oil holes in the bottom of the damper tube and use that to undo the tube from the spring land? Is this safe to do?

[n_green]

Gave up for the night before trying anything silly, put the forks back together without oil for safe keeping and managed to strip the brass rebound clicker Wish I had of read this thread before putting the caps back on. Bloody silly design that.

Jake how is your rebound screw holding up? I'll be re-tapping the damper rod (not damaged just needs cleaning up) and silver soldering the brass clicker and then re-cutting the thread. Its a good learning process haha.

[Jakobi]

Ahh! DanG. I'm sorry I didn't warn you before hand about that brass clicker!

I can't even remember how much longer I ran the forks after the mistake but it would have been quite a few hours. No issues with the silver solder holding up. Like others have said its not a stressed part. At least you're going to have a go at doing it yourself. I took the cheats way out and paid a heap for someone elses time, but it got it fixed. In the end it took over 6 months of trying to chase a replacement OEM and didn't come up with anything. I got 2 small air bleeder bolts sent to me which were supposed to be the clickers. Oh well..

I just checked my carts, and same pattern as Matts. I didn't sustain any damage to my base valve removing it, however you can see where the socket has bitten under impact. Maybe I'll have a go at cracking the cartridge one day just for educational purposes.

[Jakobi]