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Enduro Electrical & Wiring Lighting, Ignition, Wiring, Plugs, etc.


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  #1  
Old 06-28-2011, 12:10 PM
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Default 99 no spark

Finally had time this week to finish putting my 99 ec250 back together. I painted the frame, new set of rings, barnett clutch etc. Everything went together smoothly but now I have no spark.Got the meter out and everything going into the cdi box meet speck according to the info I had. I have no numbers on the cdi box or the coil. I did replace the coil with a used one (i know not always a good idea when dealing with a coil). I did meter the coil and got a reading of 1600 on the new one and the original. That is way low to me but I cant imagine that the went bad while it was sitting this winter? I replaced the connections from the bike and the cdi box as that was the only part of the electrical that got messed with during the build.

Any suggestions, if it is the cdi I am screwed


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Old 06-28-2011, 12:39 PM
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Did you grind the paint off the motor mounting points on the frame?
This will cause a no start condition due to the loss of the engine grounding points.
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Old 06-28-2011, 01:01 PM
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Check the resistance between the kill switch wire going into the CDI and the ground wire coming out. The resistance should be around 100k ohms, if there is no resistance, the CDI is bad. I have fried one on my '99 by hooking up a couple wire incorrectly when putting everything back together, luckily I was able to find a used one for sale.
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Old 06-28-2011, 01:27 PM
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I did not grind the mounting points. I will try that and check the cdi tonight
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"is the bike ok" "(groannnnnnnnnnnn)" "no seriusly is it ok?????" "crap the shrouds cracked"
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Old 06-29-2011, 08:10 AM
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Last nigh I ground the paint of the motor mounts and still did not get any fire. I also tested the cdi. I got 117 ohms from the wire going to the coil (at the junction under the airbox and the cdi ground. I only got a 44.8 ohms from the kill switch wire (taken from the same spot) and the cdi ground. I am new to testing this stuff and it did jump around a little +100 ohms but remained constant at 44.8.
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“There are only three sports: mountain climbing, bull fighting, and motor racing. All the rest are merely games.”
– Ernest Hemingway

"is the bike ok" "(groannnnnnnnnnnn)" "no seriusly is it ok?????" "crap the shrouds cracked"
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Old 06-29-2011, 10:08 AM
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44.8 ohms or k-ohms? If its just ohms, then you might have a bad CDI. If its k-ohms, its possible that it is still good, or at least that part of the CDI is still good.
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Old 06-29-2011, 05:08 PM
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Sorry that's ' ohms
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"is the bike ok" "(groannnnnnnnnnnn)" "no seriusly is it ok?????" "crap the shrouds cracked"
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Old 06-29-2011, 10:11 PM
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Did it run before you tore it down?
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Old 06-30-2011, 09:00 AM
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Yes it ran. The reason for the teardown had to due with the clutch. At my last race last year, I lost my shifter and the bike got stuck in third gear and I fried the clutch trying to get another lap out - NOT SMART. It still ran fine but was also due for rings. I did not do anything with the electrics as it was fine
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“There are only three sports: mountain climbing, bull fighting, and motor racing. All the rest are merely games.”
– Ernest Hemingway

"is the bike ok" "(groannnnnnnnnnnn)" "no seriusly is it ok?????" "crap the shrouds cracked"
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Old 06-30-2011, 09:05 AM
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If its 44.8 ohms, I can almost guarantee you its the CDI, unfortunately. At that low of resistance, the capacitor in the CDI is basically connected to ground and won't build up any kind of charge to send to the coil.

Just to make sure, you got 44.8 ohms with the kill switch wire disconnected from the CDI, as in you disconnected it to test across the CDI, right? I was thinking it could be possible that you have a bad kill switch if you left it all connected when you tested it.
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