APT SmartCarb

[Jakobi]

Good luck at Romaniacs Michael

Thanks for the reply Corey. I too am interested in the specs on the rod. Is it possible to spec it up myself in the meantime while I wait for the replacement? It can sometimes take up to a month for parts to ship from the states to aus depending on postal method. I also understand the logic behind not having an air correction circuit, but it really does rely on the metering rod being spot on.

In regards to Mikes TMs, can you elaborate on the issues he was experiencing and how they were resolved?

[Suns_PSD]

Sadly, I need to ask for VERY specific directions on how to set the float height on the Smartcarb. I don't get it. Anyone?

Also, Corey, what are the plans for the Grose valve and will it be something I can add later? My intention is to turn my bike in to a DP eventually and it would seem that the Grose valve would really help in that situation.

PS. Also, why don't you guys offer a 1/4 turn float bowl drain that can be accessed by hand. I'd pay extra for that. W/ a drain line running underneath the bike would even make it better.

[drehwurm]

There is a bit about setting the float level in the manual so once you get yours it should be pretty clear.

What I do is remove the carb from the bike and then remove the float bowl keeping the carb level all the time not to spill fuel. Measure the fuel height in the bowl to get a base setting. Adjust the tab on the float arm in the direction you want to go (lean, rich). Drain the bowl and mount it back to the carb with only two screws. Now comes the tricky part. Connect the fuel line to the carb (still off the bike, no slide), open the choke and slowly start opening the fuel tap. If you did it right no fuel will gush out of the metering tube and you can go back to step one and measure again.

Michael

[flybars]

Sounds like a pain. I was hoping to just install the SC and ride.

[drehwurm]

Originally Posted by flybars

Sounds like a pain. I was hoping to just install the SC and ride.

I've read reports where people just did that! Unfortunately there is another group which was not as lucky - be it either defective rods, just being very picky or the "hardware" playing a bigger role than anticipated. IMO the perfect setup will be a SC delivered stock on a bike with parts like the airboot correctly designed to fit and pipe, PV, ... setup accordingly - 2-stroke Nirvana

Michael

[Corey]

Originally Posted by Suns_PSD

Sadly, I need to ask for VERY specific directions on how to set the float height on the Smartcarb. I don't get it. Anyone?

Also, Corey, what are the plans for the Grose valve and will it be something I can add later? My intention is to turn my bike in to a DP eventually and it would seem that the Grose valve would really help in that situation.

PS. Also, why don't you guys offer a 1/4 turn float bowl drain that can be accessed by hand. I'd pay extra for that. W/ a drain line running underneath the bike would even make it better.

There are two ways to measure the float height. One is to measure with calipers from the float bowl gasket surface on the carburetor to the tips of the float arms. Usually .102" puts it really close. The one I recommend, simply because there is some inconsistency in the Mikuni needle seats we have chosen to use. Is to fill the float bowl, then while holding the carb vertically remove the bowl screws, pull the bowl off and measure the standing fuel height in the bowl. .775" or roughly 20mm from the bowl gasket surface to the top of the fuel.

The grose jet inlet valve will likely be standard on all SC's before long. Our number one issue is the $^&@! sourced floats that we have been using and it has to get much better than this.

We have drains on the bowl now, and about a quarter turn is all it takes to open it. Now just need a big thumbwheel on the screw. The hose fitting on the bowl will allow a hose to be placed under the engine.

[Corey]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

Good luck at Romaniacs Michael

Thanks for the reply Corey. I too am interested in the specs on the rod. Is it possible to spec it up myself in the meantime while I wait for the replacement? It can sometimes take up to a month for parts to ship from the states to aus depending on postal method. I also understand the logic behind not having an air correction circuit, but it really does rely on the metering rod being spot on.

In regards to Mikes TMs, can you elaborate on the issues he was experiencing and how they were resolved?

Jakobi,

I see the KTMtalk forum is back up. MikeS has posted most of the issues they have had over there. Also have shared quite a bit of information on their cycleplayground website. I would check those.

[Diggs345]

Originally Posted by Corey

There are two ways to measure the float height. One is to measure with calipers from the float bowl gasket surface on the carburetor to the tips of the float arms. Usually .900" puts it really close. The one I recommend, simply because there is some inconsistency in the Mikuni needle seats we have chosen to use. Is to fill the float bowl, then while holding the carb vertically remove the bowl screws, pull the bowl off and measure the standing fuel height in the bowl. .775" or roughly 20mm from the bowl gasket surface to the top of the fuel.

The grose jet inlet valve will likely be standard on all SC's before long. Our number one issue is the $^&@! sourced floats that we have been using and it has to get much better than this.

We have drains on the bowl now, and about a quarter turn is all it takes to open it. Now just need a big thumbwheel on the screw. The hose fitting on the bowl will allow a hose to be placed under the engine.

Thats the way i check my float level , is that 20mm on the new float bowl corey ? , i cant get anywhere near that with the bike in the meat of the powerband without the bike sucking the cab dry .

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by Corey

Jakobi,

I see the KTMtalk forum is back up. MikeS has posted most of the issues they have had over there. Also have shared quite a bit of information on their cycleplayground website. I would check those.

Thanks,

I had a check and a read on the CP site. I also read the whole other thread previously and may have missed it, but didn't see anything technical that actually outlined his issue and how he resolved it. I also only just realised his model is using the grose valve, where I'm on a needle and seat setup.

For now I'm just waiting out the time until a replacement MR arrives and hoping that will be the fix. I'm feeling positive.

[drehwurm]

Originally Posted by Corey

Our number one issue is the $^&@! sourced floats that we have been using and it has to get much better than this.

I agree! The floats were the last thing I hadn't played with so far since the float level seemed always fine around 19-20mm. Just to have it touched I bent the tab on the float arm 0.25mm down (towards lean) and it significantly changed the SC behavior. I had to go 15 (!!!) clicks richer to get rid of a suddenly severe hanging idle, my idle in general is much more consistent now and actually this is the 1st time I'm fairly happy with the SC in all areas. Bending the tab was the only change I did and the effect on the float level itself was minimal - less than 1mm change in float height. Slowly I'm starting to think that my original SC was changed out in transit and somebody replaced it with a cheap Chinese copy

Michael