Red oil in case?? What is it?

[Vindicator]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

http://globalracingoil.com.au/motorc...bal-gear-trans

I have some motul 5100 at home too. Haven't tried it in the Gasser though.

Thanks ! I used 5100 15-50 on my previous pumpkin, worked quite nice, gear change was quite soft, much better than with the 300V. I haven't tried on the GG yet. I'll see if I can find a GRO dealer in Portugal

[GMP]

Don't buy into the marketing hype and piss $$ away on MC trans oil. The diesel stuff is very good and will get blackened with spooge oil from the PV long before its broken down. I had my primary cover off this spring, clutch basket is like new and plates well within spec @ 200 hrs. Same with all my previous motors I've had apart. At $13/gal., its four times cheaper than some of the MC stuff that is no better. $$ better spent on tires.

[hannesd]

Originally Posted by Vindicator

Thanks ! I used 5100 15-50 on my previous pumpkin, worked quite nice, gear change was quite soft, much better than with the 300V. I haven't tried on the GG yet. I'll see if I can find a GRO dealer in Portugal

i'm using the 300V since i still had some from previous bike.
don't really have any probs,unless slighty sticky clutch.
gearbox is smooth enough,i guess.
maybe i'll give the cheaper diesel oil a try and spend ?? on tires as GMP states

[Moto7man]

My 2011 300 came with red ATF fluid. I switched to the Rotella Synthetic and it works great!

[gasser]

Originally Posted by GMP

Shell Rotella T diesel oil. Cheap and easily available everywhere, from truck stops to Walmart. Change it every race or hard ride, or a few hours. The non-syn 15-40 W is fine, and is what is recommended by Rekluse for their clutches. I used to use the 5-40W synthetic but haven't since it was reformulated. Not saying its bad now, just have not tried it lately because my '07 is fine with the 15-40W.

Only advantage to the synthetic Rotella (if you change your oil often) is that it's thinner so it works better with clutches that drag a bit. My 07 gasser liked the synthetic best but my 99, 01, and 11 gassers work just as well with the heavier dino based Rotella. I change my oil when I notice the clutch starting to drag a bit which is usually around 20-30 hours of riding in non dusty conditions.
I will add that I don't race or even abuse my clutch very much. If you do abuse your clutch the synthetic might be worth the extra. Rotella also makes a synthetic blend. Cheapest thing to do is start at the bottom (dino Rotella) and work your way up till you find the cheapest one that works the way you want it to.

[Simmo737]

It's very interesting all this, I've been using motul 7100 changing about every ten hrs, the clutch just started squawking at 53hrs when loaded at low revs with a bit of clutch abuse, a mate who has a 300 kato said his did this with the ester oils and he did some research on DBW and now uses delo400 (similar diesel oil to rotella) at 100 bucks Aussie for 20 liters and it is perfect. Changes it when he feels a change in the box, eg harder to find neutral which is usually way past 10hrs.

Another bloke round here uses Bp 20w50 deisel "farm" oil in his rmz450 changed every approx 5hrs or race and it's still going at 200 hrs no other maintenance beyond new filter when he can be bothered. NONE. It's 80 bucks per 20 liters and goes in everything on his farm.

I'm thinking maybe in the tranny GMP is correct as usual and save the money.

I think I'm going to go this way. Also the Aussie distributor has allegedly never sold a transmission part, apparently about the toughest one out there.

This bike continues to amaze.

[Vindicator]

Originally Posted by hannesd

i'm using the 300V since i still had some from previous bike.
don't really have any probs,unless slighty sticky clutch.
gearbox is smooth enough,i guess.
maybe i'll give the cheaper diesel oil a try and spend ?? on tires as GMP states

For some strange reason the 300V Factory Line 15w-50 would make my 07' KTM 300 gearbox harsh. Never had any issues with the clutch but one frequent problem I had was to systematically fail to reduce from 2nd gear to 1st gear on sturdy up hills. It would always shift to neutral, you can imagine the imediate result of this . Switched to 5100 15w-50 , semi-synthetic (technosynthese), and this problem simply fade away.

I don't mean to start an oil discussion because oil and mixture % is like religion but I always try to use the adequate oil for the tranny. This does not mean that if not having it around I would not use Rotella or any other but it's just my perspective.
I change the tranny oil every 500Kms until it totals 1500kms. After that I change it every 1500Kms or 1 year. It still comes out almost like new, I spend 12? on each oil change. I have ride mates that do it every 2 years or more...They have an even smaller carbon footprint than me

[Ud_luz]

I use GM Auto Trac II. Very nice in a clutch.

[GMP]

Motul 300V is a ester synthetic good for very high temps, I used it in my air cooled Ducati Hypermotard (dry clutch) in summer. Its formulated to run hot, as ester absorbs moisture from the air at a high rate and that will not be driven off otherwise. It is totally unnecessary and undesirable in a two stroke trans, which basically runs cold compared to a four stroke. Your not even close to a good diesel oil's limitations. Try a couple different weight oils until you find what your bike likes. Like gasser said, I had some that liked the lighter synthetic, and others like the one I have now thats a one kick in gear starter with the 15W-40W. ATF is OK in a lot of bikes, with good clutch action, but on the light side that made shifting a bit notchy in mine.

This is my clutch basket @ 200hrs.

[Simmo737]

That photo just convinced me, it looks like you don't even use the clutch. Wow.