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Enduro Electrical & Wiring Lighting, Ignition, Wiring, Plugs, etc. |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
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2004 300 EC. Stator, coil and CDI measurements
I have a 2004 300 EC. It is getting a weak spark. I have been searching online for info and have not found a source yet. Does anyone know the Stator, coil and CDI measurements with an ohm meter?
I have checked all connections, and cleaned them with no results. So now I'm stuck thinking the stator, coil or CDI is faulty. Any help is greatly appreciated. Fresh fuel. New plug. Cleaned carb. Tried small amount of starting fluid. No start. Thanks. Howard. |
#2
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Any tips. Tricks or places to get info?
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#3
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I just emailed you a PDF of the engine shop manual. It contains all the test values. This is a very common Kokusan ignition.
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#4
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Hey. I got the email thanks.
I looked through the PDF file. I only found readings for the stator. But the list of wires to check had more wires then what this stator has. I know my exciter set of wires rang out high. This one was like 100ohms. Is there a place with the measurements for the coil as well? Thanks, Howard |
#5
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You might have a 2K-2 ignition. (small flywheel, wires exit front of cover). Only difference in specs would be for lighting coil, ignition windings and pulser should be the same. I don't remember if coil values were in there or not.
I just remembered something to suggest though. A common problem with these coils after a couple years is for the HV wire to come loose, the glue that bonds the small rubber boot to the coil body and seals things up breaks down, and lets water into the connection. Check this, and if its loose remove the HV wire/boot, cut the wire back a few mm, clean the coil up good, and thread the wire back on the screw terminal in the coil body. I use a little Honda grip glue on the edge of the wire insulation and boot to seal things back up nice. Check the plug cap side as well, and go through all your other connections. My bike is a one kick starter now after having these problems. Another thing is the CDI harness flexes where the subframe meets the frame when the subframe is lifted up. In some cases the wires can break inside the insulation and cause intermittant operation, while still looking OK from the outside. Good Luck! |
#6
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Ok. Took the plug wire off the coil and plug boot end. Cut about 1/4" off and made sure no corrosion on the screw part. Put it back together. Made sure that the coil frame was grounded good to the bikes frame. Cleaned every connection. Took the kill switch out of the circuit.
My cdi box has 7 wires. White/blue Black/yellow Black/white Red Green Black/red Red/white My stator has 5 wires. Red Green Black/red Red/white Yellow Going up the frame I have White/blue Black/yellow Yellow/green That manual says: Impulse coil, red - green 100ohms. Mine is 100.6 ohms Exciter, blk/red - red/white 12.7ohms. Mine is 26.2 ohms. Charge coil, yellow - earth .67 ohms. Mine is .9 ohms White - yellow .16 ohms. But I don't have a white wire on stator. My stator the wires come out of between cover and engine at the 10 o'clock position. Isn't the exciter coil the part that starts the spark/voltage to feed the spark plug coil? |
#7
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I pulled the stator out since according to the numbers it may have an issue as well.
Some spots don't look good. But still un certain. Was hoping to find some definite answer. Ha ha. Like its that easy. |
#8
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See this thread:
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/sho...hlight=Exciter 2K-2 Exciter coil resistance is different after all, so it sounds like your probably OK there. FWIW, its the same as a KTM 2K-2 stator, the backing plate is slightly different. |
#9
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Ha ha. Well heck. That does not help. Maybe I'm still gonna be searching for the cause of weak spark.
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#10
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Try a CDI, borrow one if you can. Any Kokusan CDI will serve the purpose.
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