2010 EC300 Factory Jetting Specs - WTF?

[MJC]

Originally Posted by mrkartoom

When I spin my carb to get to the bowl drain plug for jetting changes it stretches the choke able just enough to pop it out of the seat. I too have made part of the ritual re-seating the choke cable and operating it a few times to make sure it is free.

As much as I like the lever up top I'm going to install the knob on the carb and ditch the cable. Got one in from CarbParts and it's going on. I'll miss it for testing, but I don't ride in the desert or spend lots of time in the top end, so I'm converting.

I had to get rid of my hand chock for a plunger type. It nearly cost me a win at my last race. My nephew accidently pushed it in and it stuck when he was putting gas in my bike during a pitstop. I had to get off the bike and jiggle the cable(40 sec).I'm not driving 3hrs to a race only to have it done in by a sticking choke cable and lever.

[husley]

Last week
4000-7000
50' F
40 N3CH # 2 178

Ran great at 4000', but had a noticeable decrease in performance as I climbed.

Will be back at 4000-7000, 60' F this coming week.

Left the N3CH at #2, but Pilot is now 38, Main 175. Hopefully the top-end will come to life as it is a bit flat on top.

Will update.

[husley]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

Just checking in with a little comparison between the last 2 needles I have used.
N3EG#1
N3CH#2
Both needles run using a 38 pilot and 175 Main.

It amazes me what difference even half a clips difference can make to the power delivery!

I meant to purchase a N3EG so I could go 1/2 clip leaner then my #2 N3CH.

I goofed and purchased a N3EH, is the N3EH and N3EG comparable?

If I want to go 1/2 clip leaner then #2 N3CH, what would I use on the N3EH?

[bergerhag]

Originally Posted by husley

I meant to purchase a N3EG so I could go 1/2 clip leaner then my #2 N3CH.

I goofed and purchased a N3EH, is the N3EH and N3EG comparable?

If I want to go 1/2 clip leaner then #2 N3CH, what would I use on the N3EH?

N3EH has larger diameter on straight part, and as E is half clip richer than C, you would use N3EH#1 to get half clip leaner then N3CG #2. Or you could use N3CG #1 shimmed with flat washer with 0.45 mm thickness

[husley]

Originally Posted by bergerhag

N3EH has larger diameter on straight part,

does this mean that it is leaner in the mid-range?

[Jakobi]

N3EG and N3EH are the same needle apart from the G being slightly richer on the straight diameter (pilot circuit).

The N3C are the same except half a clip position leaner.

N3CH #1 = N3EH #1.5
N3CG #1 = N3EG #1.5

Difference between the G and H diameter is about as much difference as a turn or so on the air screw.

[Bailey28]

Just got back from a test ride with the N3EH.... I like it! I am running a 38 pilot, N3EH 2nd clip, 175 main jet. A/S at 1 1/2 turns out.

I did remove the reed spacer and put in a CR250 4 petal reed cage and a set of Aktive fiberglass reeds. I think the reed cage takes up more room in the case area and slightly raised the primary compression.

Results? Nice powerband, real smooth, very CCK like. No exhaust spooge at all, light smoke on warmup, no smoke after cleaning it out. Bike pulls really well all gears. No four stroking or pipe kacking, banging, etc. Spark plug looks good, darker brown but dry. The engine will idle, a nice smooth dingy-ding idle. This was on rainy map.

On sunny map, the surge comes in sooner, front wheel is very light, dangerous on the road to ride aggressively in 1-3rd gear if you are not careful. Pulls hard from the very bottom.

Today in Gainesville it is very humid, 90*F and hot as hell. I may drop the needle to the 1st clip to see if I can get the plug a bit lighter.

I really can't tell if I gained or lost anything from the VForce reeds, I started experimenting with the CR cage after my stock reeds frayed at 30 hours. The CR's are much cheaper replacements.

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by Bailey28

Just got back from a test ride with the N3EH.... I like it! I am running a 38 pilot, N3EH 2nd clip, 175 main jet. A/S at 1 1/2 turns out.

I did remove the reed spacer and put in a CR250 4 petal reed cage and a set of Aktive fiberglass reeds. I think the reed cage takes up more room in the case area and slightly raised the primary compression.

Results? Nice powerband, real smooth, very CCK like. No exhaust spooge at all, light smoke on warmup, no smoke after cleaning it out. Bike pulls really well all gears. No four stroking or pipe kacking, banging, etc. Spark plug looks good, darker brown but dry. The engine will idle, a nice smooth dingy-ding idle. This was on rainy map.

On sunny map, the surge comes in sooner, front wheel is very light, dangerous on the road to ride aggressively in 1-3rd gear if you are not careful. Pulls hard from the very bottom.

Today in Gainesville it is very humid, 90*F and hot as hell. I may drop the needle to the 1st clip to see if I can get the plug a bit lighter.

I really can't tell if I gained or lost anything from the VForce reeds, I started experimenting with the CR cage after my stock reeds frayed at 30 hours. The CR's are much cheaper replacements.

You're half a clip richer than I am now with my current setup (N3CH) and I think I could go half a clip leaner on the needle. A full clip was too much and I fell flat and got some pinging

[swazi_matt]

What altitude is that at and what fuel mix?

[Bailey28]

OK here it is::

Shell 93 octane premium, Yamalube 2R mixed at 32:1, NGK BR8EG. I will move the needle down to clip 1 and re evaluate. I do have a few 1/2 clip needle shims to experiment with. I ride at about 200 feet above sea level. Florida has no mountains. 100 feet elevation change to us is a major deal!

I may play with the spacer and the CR reed cage, really the only thing I noticed is that the engine is a little more crisp right off the bottom.

It is so hot and humid here that if the weather were to change to 60 degrees and 20% humidity the bike would not run right.

The "H" diameter is good for a smooth idle. I could still probably have gone to a "W" or even leaner on the straight. I think the N3 taper is the smoothest so far.

I still have the NOZH to try. I also bought some case gaskets today so I can check and adjust the powervalve operation. I think over time, the valve is getting more free play and starting to open too soon causing a sag right before the surge.