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Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc


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  #11  
Old 04-15-2017, 07:47 PM
_Hammy _Hammy is offline
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Yep, it's a slow one as I struggle to find time between work and family commitments, and most my my shed time is spent keeping my kids bikes prepped properly now they're doing a bit of racing

Spent ages thinking about making up a different bracket for the trailtech /GG computer to use the bolt hole on the top of the Yamaha clamp that's used for the front number plate, but in the end I reluctantly decided to tap a M6 hole in the front to mount it up the same way as the GG

I haven't drilled and tapped a hole for ages, but this went well thankfully






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  #12  
Old 05-17-2017, 06:02 AM
_Hammy _Hammy is offline
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Getting closer now. The wheel spacers turned up a few weeks ago courtesy of a generous forum member on Dirtbikeworld



Also decided to leave my CC fork education for another day and just sent them off to my local tuner for servicing and setting up to his off-road spec.

Plan B was to just fit them up and ride and get some feel for how they behaved, but luckily I didn't go with this path as one of the piston assemblies had come apart, but not yet caused any internal damage.

I don't have any info on the valving which is fair enough as this is his business, and his rates are reasonable. Forks are in hand now, so I'm hoping to fit this all together as soon as I get some decent shed time
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  #13  
Old 05-17-2017, 06:32 AM
_Hammy _Hammy is offline
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A new challenge is that the triple clamp now contacts the radiator guards before full rotation of the forks, and before it would get anywhere near where my bump stops would be on the frame

By best estimates I should get another cm or two of rotation.





First thought is to bend the guard inward where the triple hits it, as you can see some trailside damage has already pushed it in i another area in the foreground of the photo
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  #14  
Old 05-17-2017, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _Hammy View Post
A new challenge is that the triple clamp now contacts the radiator guards before full rotation of the forks, and before it would get anywhere near where my bump stops would be on the frame

By best estimates I should get another cm or two of rotation.

First thought is to bend the guard inward where the triple hits it, as you can see some trailside damage has already pushed it in i another area in the foreground of the photo
Why not trim the offending part? That far inboard shouldn't be too exposed to trail debris, since those are just mud guards at that point. Shouldn't be any structural issue with giving them a light trim to relieve any rubbing or fouling issues.
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  #15  
Old 05-17-2017, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pscook View Post
Why not trim the offending part? That far inboard shouldn't be too exposed to trail debris, since those are just mud guards at that point. Shouldn't be any structural issue with giving them a light trim to relieve any rubbing or fouling issues.
I had to trim mine up, it's worked out fine with no issues.
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  #16  
Old 05-17-2017, 05:04 PM
_Hammy _Hammy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pscook View Post
Why not trim the offending part? That far inboard shouldn't be too exposed to trail debris, since those are just mud guards at that point. Shouldn't be any structural issue with giving them a light trim to relieve any rubbing or fouling issues.


I think you're right - just always hesitant doing irreversible changes, but I'm close to getting this all together now. They're pretty strong guards so they should be ok
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  #17  
Old 08-06-2017, 01:21 AM
_Hammy _Hammy is offline
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Trimmed the radiator guards up in situ, so the lower triple now clears the guards

Bump stops added. As others have done, I've used rubber door stoppers from the local hardware place and secured with a self tapping steel screw

Predrilled the frame on one of the gussets just under the headstem which negated putting a hole in the frame




I've been able to give it a short ride test around our yard, and while it's no substitute for a proper ride we have a little BMX track with small berms and jumps, a log obstacle and enough things to muck around on.

Right now I'm really impressed! I never got out of second gear, but these forks are lovely and plush when popping over obstacles, yet seem to ride nice and high in their stroke.

Knowing that these forks are well able to absorb big hits and handle obstacles at speed , my main concern was that they'd be too firm at slow trail pace. Very happy that's not the case at this point.

Will hopefully get to give them a good test in the next few weeks



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  #18  
Old 08-06-2017, 09:16 AM
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Those door stops look very tall. Do they limit your lock to lock turn radius? I know I have a different frame on my 2000 but I used a 1/4" (7mm) rubber pad on the frame as a bump stop.
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  #19  
Old 08-07-2017, 06:45 AM
_Hammy _Hammy is offline
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Default 2007 YZ250F KYB SSS into 2009 EC300

They're about 35mm long which is the same as the distance from the fork tube to the end of the bump stop bolt (lower triple clamp) on my Sachs

So I used that as my goto measurement, but you can pull the steering tighter and compress the rubber with still quite a safety margin.

I can probably take 10mm off them before the fork tubes hit the radiator, but I think I'll take it for a proper ride test first

Edit: the fork tubes hit the bump stop, not the lower triple, so perhaps thats the difference?

Last edited by _Hammy; 08-07-2017 at 07:24 AM.
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  #20  
Old 08-07-2017, 08:06 AM
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I rode a Ducati once and I had to do a 6 point turn to get it turned around on a 12ft, (4m) wide road.
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