blowing bulbs

[dimtsam]

Hi
I made a DC convertion on my bike. I put the yellow wire (after the voltage regulator) that comes near the headlight, and the a groung cable to one voltage rectifier (like the photo). Then I connect the DC cables, after the rectifier, to the headlight socket. The measure with my multimeter is from 9 to 12 v. So everything looks normal.But when I connect it to the headlight bulb, after a little riding, the bulb goes off.
Any ideas? Is the problem on my voltage regulator? Why I dont get overvoltage measures to my multimeter?

Thanks a lot

[Pygmygod]

Are you measuring the voltage at all different amounts of throttle?
Or just idling?

[dimtsam]

Yes. not only idle.

[Neil E.]

Let's review:
Stator output yellow and chassis ground to the rectifier input.
Rectifier output to the headlight socket.
One wire to the filament terminal, other wire to the bulb shell terminal.
So far so good.

The fly in the ointment might be the stock GG voltage regulator. Let's say the GG stator can put out 60 volts AC when the revs go up. The GG regulator is supposed to clip this at ~13VAC so your bulbs don't burn out.

There have been many postings about stock regulators not performing properly. I would guess your new rectifier is converting to DC OK, but an AC overvoltage would give you a DC overvoltage and burn out the bulbs.

The only solution is to use a regulator/rectifier unit instead of the basic rectifier shown in your picture. It would then protect against overvoltage. You could try adding a zener diode that would block voltage instead but they aren't cheap.

[dimtsam]

Thanks a lot Neil. Any suggestions for regulator/rectifier? I know about the Trailtech. This afternoon I made a test with a chinese reg/rec ( 4 wires) that the 2 wires are the DC and the other two are the yellow and the white cables that comes from stator (2 phase). It didnt worked well. So I dont know if there is an other option except the Trailtech's one.

[Pygmygod]

Why change to DC light?

If it's designed and installed to run on AC then why bother going to the trouble to swap it over?

Does it put out higher or more consistent light output by going DC?

[Neil E.]

Originally Posted by dimtsam

Thanks a lot Neil. Any suggestions for regulator/rectifier? I know about the Trailtech. This afternoon I made a test with a chinese reg/rec ( 4 wires) that the 2 wires are the DC and the other two are the yellow and the white cables that comes from stator (2 phase). It didnt worked well. So I dont know if there is an other option except the Trailtech's one.

The GG stator is single phase AC only. Bottom of the windings is engine/chassis ground. Top of the windings is the white wire for maximum output. The yellow wire is a little ways down the windings, say 90% output. This reduces the output a bit so a basic regulator has a better chance of keeping the voltage stable.

The white wire is used to feed a regulator/rectifier so the voltage is higher to enable battery charging. Using the white plus yellow wire for a rectifer input is useless, there isn't enough energy on that 10% of the windings to do anything.

A rectifier input connection must be either yellow plus ground OR white plus ground. The rectifier output only goes to the device you are powering.