2014 Gas Gas EC300R

[nato]

I am of similar weight and i only feel as though i need to go one up on the springs in the forks and i run a 5.6 from memory on the ohlins shock. i wonder if the not great feelings in the forks are to heavy springs? As for the rear the ohlins don't need a heavy spring imo but the reiger is a new game so see how you go.

[Jakobi]

I run a 5.6 rate in my 2010 model, but only a 5.2 in the new bike. I tried a 5.4 and it felt way too stiff and had the back deflecting off everything. I kept it on for only one short ride.

I do feel that I could use a bit more spring up front though, which is likely due to the slack PFP springs I have in my bike. I really should get some washers and shim it out so that it works the way it was designed to. I have ordered a set of .44 (along with nato). At that point I'll probably service the shock, shuffle a few shims and move back to a heavier spring.

[n_green]

I ended up speaking with Dave (suspension matters) and he advised me to stick with the rear rate and drop the forks to .48's.

He is hopefully sending the fork springs to me along with a collar to take up the slop in the spring.

Hopefully I'll get them installed by the weekend and get the carts nice and bled then go for another ride and see how they feel.

[nato]

I am certainly no expert on suspension quite the opposite but do you think it would have been a good idea to ride the bike with the stock suspension and jetting just so you had a feel for what you needed to change instead of changing spring weights and jetting only to need to change it again? Im not having a dig at your way of setting up your bike and every man to himself with his gear but just wondering?

[Jakobi]

I didn't bother with the stock jetting, but had a ride on the stock suspension/chasis/engine before starting on the changes.

Its an odd one though, because I know I'm running more preload than I'd like to get the right sag figures, but the static and race sags are within the spec I'm after and the shock is working acceptably. In comparison going to a heavier spring allowed me to run a bit less preload, but the shock handled like crap.

On the other hand, I started with a 5.4 rate on the TTX on the 2010 model and it was OK but a bit firm overall and backing out the LSC only made it ride lower in the stroke and slam hard into square edges. In the end I went up another rate on the spring to a 5.6, dropped the clamp shim one size and a larger OD crossover. Good LSC to hold it up in the stroke, but soft enough on the HSC when slamming square edges.

[n_green]

Originally Posted by nato

I am certainly no expert on suspension quite the opposite but do you think it would have been a good idea to ride the bike with the stock suspension and jetting just so you had a feel for what you needed to change instead of changing spring weights and jetting only to need to change it again? Im not having a dig at your way of setting up your bike and every man to himself with his gear but just wondering?

I must admit I did think about it, but at the end of the day, why? I would have been putting off the inevitable.

I've ridden the N1EF needle and whilst it was on a different bike a poo power delivery is a poo power delivery. Even with this new bike liking a richer setting a stupidly short straight section will always cause a rich burbling loaded up engine in the singles.
Also I honestly believed that this engine and the '13 engine would be the same, so
I was expecting to plug in Simmos jetting and let the good times roll

Regarding the suspension, didn't even consider it, I'm 95kg and weigh 115kg geared up. Stock springs would never cut the mustard. The right springs make a huge difference in the handling of the bike, alas at the expense of stock rebound control, but when I bought this bike I knew I would be re springing it, revalving it and getting the squish corrected.
The heavy springs currently on it were off the '11 so they didn't cost me anything. And prior to deciding what valving changes (if any) are required you must be running the correct springs, correct sags and the suspension fluid you will be valving with. So I mainly did it to get a head start on what I think ill need to do when I finally start shuffling the shims.

I remember my first modern dirtbike - a '04
KTM 300. I put a JD jetting kit in it at the recommended settings, then ride the bejeesus out of it. Never changed the jetting again, never touched the sags or even clickers let alone revalve, and I didn't mind it. Sometimes I think knowing the bike can be better and knowing how to get it better is a curse, if I was the old ignorant me I'd be spending all my time riding it, not working on it

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by n_green

I remember my first modern dirtbike - a '04
KTM 300. I put a JD jetting kit in it at the recommended settings, then ride the bejeesus out of it. Never changed the jetting again, never touched the sags or even clickers let alone revalve, and I didn't mind it. Sometimes I think knowing the bike can be better and knowing how to get it better is a curse, if I was the old ignorant me I'd be spending all my time riding it, not working on it

Isn't it true! My old 04 WR250F didn't see much more than fresh oil and air filters..

[nato]

I certainly agree with the jetting mine like everyone else had the n1ef and i didn't really like it to say the least. As for the suspension i rode mine for a while to see how everything felt then started changing things, I know what your saying regarding the more you learn things can be better the more you change it. I guess I'm only just learning how a bike can change so much from the suspension changes. I have always been a buy and ride guy until this bike (
i am blaming the forums as they teach you so much from others experience)

Anyway back to this '14 how do you like the seat removal setup? Can the seat be taken right away or does it just layoff to the side with the battery cables?

Also when changing to the new frame did you think it was less vibey like i did?

[n_green]

The seat is a bit annoying, 8mm bolt at the back and then remove by flipping it over to the rhs of the bike where it hangs on a securing strap and the battery cables. Doesn't really get in the way though and now there's a light lithium in there not a 50kg lead acid battery there isn't much weight on the strap or cables.

I haven't noticed any vibes yet, but my only ride has been through a rock garden. Once I get to open it up a bit more and cruise on fire trails I'll be able to tell. Sitting on it and revving it feels less vibey through the bars, but not too different through the pegs.

[CombatYoga]

That's really interesting n_green - I found exactly the opposite on my '14 EC300R.

Not a noticeable amount of vibration through the bars, but a good bit of buzzing in my feet.

There is however one major caveat. I have been riding a YZ450f for the last few years.
This is my first 2T in a looooong time. So my recent comparison is with a 4T.

I'm running stock bars and Fastway pegs.

I have a HS race this coming weekend so I'll report back afterwards.