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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc. |
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#1
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No bottom end
Hi folks, I?m trying to diagnose a problem with my bike that?s been present the last few times out on it.
It seems to have no bottom end power, stalls easily and you have to be in exactly the right gear for it to pull into the higher revs and not bog. I have replaced the spark plug, stripped and cleaned carb and jets, fitted new air filter. Once it gets higher into the rev range it appears ok but I?m pretty sure it?s lacking there too. By ideas? |
#2
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Maybe the power valve is stuck open?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#3
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Hi mate, thanks for the reply.
I?m pretty certain it?s not stuck open as I?ve recently had it apart and had the RHS side cover off to remove freeplay out of the PV governor. It?s something to check though thanks. |
#4
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Check the plug wire where it screws into the coil. You can cut a half inch off the wire and screw it back in.
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Dick Carnes "If ya run, you'll only die tired" 2019 EC 300 2018 GP 300 2013 XC 300 (sold) 2006 DE 300 (buddy has it) |
#5
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That sounds like a lean condition. Any other recent changes? Have you performed a leak down test of the engine to confirm that the left hand crank seal isn't leaking? Intake boot in good shape without any leaks or cracks?
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Phil (New bike pending...) |
#6
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When I got my used XC 200, it acted just as you describe. I bumped the pilot up one notch, from a 40 to a 42, I seem to recall. That brought the low end to life and really smoothed out the transition from low to mid to wfo.
However, as I learned the hard way, I had a mag side crank bearing starting to go bad which in turn was causing the seal to leak a little. I was visiting and trail riding with some friends in another state when after a steep hill climb, I shut the bike off to wait & see if everyone made it up that hill. Once we were all up & over, I tried to start the bike and it was locked up tight. Thankfully, I kept rocking it back & forth in gear and it finally broke loose. Once I got it started again, I rode it the 5 miles or so back to the truck. Upon dis-assembly, I found the cage that holds the rollers had come apart and jammed between the cases and the crank. But the deteroiation of the hard face of the bearing race and ball bearings had been happening for a long while. I'm convinced that bearing was what was causing my lean condition when I bought it. After rebuilding the engine, I needed to go back to the 40 pilot jet. Not trying to scare you, but just saying if you do have to replace the crank seal, you might want to check out the main bearing as best you can while you're at it. If it has a hint of looseness or even a hint of any moisture or mud has gotten past that seal, then I'd seriously consider new crank bearings. RB |
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