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General Discussions & Announcements General Announcements, General Questions, e.g. What bike do I buy?, etc. |
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#11
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Originally Posted by lineman12345678 I re-jetted it with DDK needle middle position 178 main and 40 Pilot... I am only a half turn out on the fuel screw. The farther I go out on the screw it starts to blubber. I run 48 pilot with 180 main (and LTR needle) on my 250
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jeff '00 XC250 (mine) LTS front and rear suspension, power valve cover, carb jet kit and rear chain glide, RB Designs head mod, BRP tall triple clamp, backyard foot-peg lowering conversion. '04 EC250 (the kids) (he can do his own mods haha!) |
#12
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Thanks. I was thinking about trying the 42 pilot also. With the 40 I can run it 1 turn out but 1/2 turn is much better. I think the 42 will work the best. Are you counting the needle clip position from the bottom up or top down?
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#13
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It's also important that you back out and reset the idle screw - if you have it cranked in too far you are starting to "pull over" from the needle/main too early. Where is your idle screw set now? If it is cranked in to the point of coil bind on the spring - then it needs to be backed out.
jeff |
#14
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Yes it is compressing the spring a bit. I will back it out when I switch it to the42 pilot. Thanks
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#15
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I this weather - I would go with a 45 pilot and then turn down the idle. I would go with the LTR needle - one clip position up from center.
What fuel & mixture ratio are you using, etc. Are you running a race fuel or pump gas? You would go leaner for a race gas with a lighter specific gravity. jeff |
#16
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By the way, if you want to make the carb easier to dial in - consider having the Ron at RB-Designs do his carb mod on your keihin. And to make it run cleaner (greater efficiency and throttle response) - having the squish dialed in by Ron too. He is located in Portland (actually Bonney Slope) - so is relatively local to you.
jeff |
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