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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc. |
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#1
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'13 300 S3 head and port timing
Hey All, Had my second ride in on my 300 and def loving it! I'm in search for more off idle snap at the expense of top is ok. Most everything we ride is doing a "zap" up rock ledges etc.
S3 head I have already but not installed, will check squish and wanted to know in regard to cylinder base what is the most efficient for what i'm looking for? I read through some threads and started getting headache! LOL. Also I'm keeping the 38mm AS2 on it and going to switch the stock needle out. Suggestions for 7k-12k altitude! Thanks much everyone A photo of the typical stuff we ride. This is one from last weekend on my '13 300 |
#2
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50 tooth rear sprocket helps on the low speed stuff.
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#3
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Jetting is no1 priority. Search and read my thread on squish and head mod.
Ahh I'm too good to you http:// http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16560&highlight=head
__________________
'07 EC300 GG '14 TXT250 GG '? 496 CPI Cheetah RZ/RGV hybrid '22 765 Street Triple RS '21 XTrainer '69 Stinger T125 Suzuki '23 TRS 250RR (it's a Trials thing) |
#4
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Thanks! Appreciate the link. I searched it and it seems to be all over the place. Lol. I know where I live is higher in altitude than most so trying to find a good start. Yes there is a 50T on it now but going to a 52 rear. Getting I guess I'll try the NEDW needle. RM needle worth trying too?
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#5
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I had better luck with the N3CH needle than the NEDW. Also consider a House of Horsepower pipe and silencer. Hands down the best money you can spend on these bikes
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#6
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Thanks for the tip! I'll try that needle too. I have a stock pipe now and FMF Q. I'll eventually get a pipe once the stock one is crushed.
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#7
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I have the same bike, and pretty much the same type of terrain. I'm at about 5k for altitude, and ride up to about 10k. Here is what I'm running.
N3CJ needle 2nd position summer, 3rd position winter 170 main 40 Pilot My squish has been cut to about 1.5mm on the stock head. I left the combustion chamber alone. Compression is pretty high, but it runs fine on pump gas. I've even visited friends at sea level and only had some pinging at idle after a hard run. Nothing a twist of the air screw couldn't fix. As far as power, it lugs extremely well. Just when I think it's going to give up on me in the middle of some stupid rocky steep climb, I twist a little more and it keeps going. It still pulls hard on top, but there is barely any hit. It's very smooth and predictable.
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2013 GasGas XC300E 2005 YZ290 1973 Honda CB175 1997 KX60 1983 Yami Tri-Zinger 1984 Suzuki Alt 50 1969 Trail 90 1971 Trail 90 1972 Trail 90 |
#8
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We run this setup in a 2011 300 and 2012 300
0-7000 elevation with no issues. Crisp bottom and clean running Needle N2ZJ I find them for a 2011 KTM 300 XC Clip second position down from the top Main 168 Idle 38 Air screw 1 3/4 out 2011 has a #7 slide and 2012 has a #8 don't notice a difference between the two. 50-1 ratio with Amsoil Dominator. The 2011 Has an S3 head with the highest compression insert. |
#9
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Sounds like there is a few needles people like for their own. Good to know. I put the S3 head w black insert (AA) and my squish came out to about 1.45mm. The stock was 1.85! So I'm thinking I'd like to cut the cyl base for the rest to 1.25mm. Dropping my ports at the same time basically same as going thin base gasket. Anyone experiment w that?Btw my current jetting has been 165M and 38P although I think it needs a 40. Needle is stock N1EF.
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