gas gas won't idle? read this!

[cdn280]

Originally Posted by jeffd

I don't think this is a good way to go about "fixing" this carb. What you are doing is allowing the bike to pullover from the needle too soon. It will work for you on one day, but it makes the bike very sensitive to environmental changes. Because the slide is pulled up farther, the air screw will no longer have much effect - so you won't be able to fine tune the pilot circuit with the air screw.
I met Ron Black at RB-Designs face to face for the first time yesterday (I had him bore a carb for me)- he installs carb blades on the intake side (this is only one step that he takes to increase pilot circuit sensitivity - he does other things - some of them "super secret sauce"). He knows his stuff, his work is top notch (and his shop is immaculate).... You should talk to him before spending time or money elsewhere. www.rb-designs.com
jeff

Seeing as this post hasn't died yet, the above statement still has me thinking. Ricardo has said that the needle is still in its closed part of the taper so you are really only adjusting the idle speed only the way its supposed to work by opening the slide slightly. So there is no spending involved unless you want to pay someone like RB.
I've got the tach working on mine and the best idle to prevent stalling on steep downhills and during long idling periods seems to be about 1900rpm. What are others finding. And although the main jet only marginally affects the zero to 1/8 throttle mixture, I recently went from a 178 to a 175 main and it idles a lot better and longer at 500-3000ft. I'm going to try the next leaner pilot as soon as I find out what I have in there again.
Mine is a 2006 EC300

[eff]

Originally Posted by iancp5

That's a bit harsh for someone you don't know!
I wonder what people think about you?

I think the username does make a suggestion. I think most are not up on their spanish here. Cabeza = head. I think you can figure out the rest.

[iancp5]

Originally Posted by eff

I think the username does make a suggestion. I think most are not up on their spanish here. Cabeza = head. I think you can figure out the rest.

Ah - The dawn breaks

[webmaster]

I will repeat - "It is okay to attack an idea, it is not okay to attack a person". Please let it die guys...

Peace,
Jeff

[jeffd]

Originally Posted by cdn280

Seeing as this post hasn't died yet, the above statement still has me thinking. Ricardo has said that the needle is still in its closed part of the taper so you are really only adjusting the idle speed only the way its supposed to work by opening the slide slightly. So there is no spending involved unless you want to pay someone like RB.
I've got the tach working on mine and the best idle to prevent stalling on steep downhills and during long idling periods seems to be about 1900rpm. What are others finding. And although the main jet only marginally affects the zero to 1/8 throttle mixture, I recently went from a 178 to a 175 main and it idles a lot better and longer at 500-3000ft. I'm going to try the next leaner pilot as soon as I find out what I have in there again.
Mine is a 2006 EC300

I know from experience that having it near coil bind on the idle screw that my air screw had very little effect. This makes sense to me - because an increased amount air and fuel is coming via the slide/needle that the relative contribution of the pilot circuit is now much less.

Going with LTR jetting (my bike was the bike used for creating the jetting kit) - the idle screw was further out and I could go a 1/4 turn on the air screw to adjust for cold temps in the morning, etc. There is a range of settings where this carb is designed to operate - I think that cutting the spring and going in further on the idle screw will make the idle circuit even less sensitive - you will lose the ability to do any fine tuning via the air screw.

The LTR jetting kit allows you to turn down the idle screw and you get better pilot circuit sensitivity (which this carb needs). In talking to Ron at RB-Designs - he takes it several steps further, modifying the carb itself to increase pilot circuit sensitivity.

If you go up 4500 feet in altitude from 1000 feet - and it starts to blubber off the bottom a little, don't you want to be able to just turn the air screw a little and have it purr like a kitten off the bottom? Seems to me that if you are cutting the spring and turning in the idle screw further you will be moving in the opposite direction. It may work fine - but I think you should be aware of what you are sacrificing along the way...

jeff

[Eric K]

Originally Posted by cdn280

Seeing as this post hasn't died yet, the above statement still has me thinking. Ricardo has said that the needle is still in its closed part of the taper so you are really only adjusting the idle speed only the way its supposed to work by opening the slide slightly. So there is no spending involved unless you want to pay someone like RB.
I've got the tach working on mine and the best idle to prevent stalling on steep downhills and during long idling periods seems to be about 1900rpm. What are others finding. And although the main jet only marginally affects the zero to 1/8 throttle mixture, I recently went from a 178 to a 175 main and it idles a lot better and longer at 500-3000ft. I'm going to try the next leaner pilot as soon as I find out what I have in there again.
Mine is a 2006 EC300

I used to run my '01 GasGas 300 with a stock needle and 35 or 38 pilot. It was pulling over on the main circuit. The idle speed screw was at coil bind. The idle and jetting was not consistent from day to day. Since going to LTR jetting, it ran much better for years.

My '06 EC300 idles smoothly at 1100 RPM from sea level to 6k ft. The idle speed screw is not jammed into coil bind. I have used LTR jetting and similar straight taper needles with very good results.

[Adrian]

What I'm reading in to this is that his slide is completely closed until the idle screw is almost at coil bind. If the carb pulls over too much at 3/4 turn in from FULLY CLOSED then the pilot ciruit would be next to worthless. I to agree with Mr. Head the #35 pilot and the coil bind problem is not a factor on my bike. I tried the ltr jet kit and it just didn't work with my riding style.

[iancp5]

Originally Posted by Adrian

What I'm reading in to this is that his slide is completely closed until the idle screw is almost at coil bind. If the carb pulls over too much at 3/4 turn in from FULLY CLOSED then the pilot ciruit would be next to worthless. I to agree with Mr. Head the #35 pilot and the coil bind problem is not a factor on my bike. I tried the ltr jet kit and it just didn't work with my riding style.

That was my experience too.
At least we know who to blame now - JeffD!!

[mjtursky]

I know this is a pretty old post but this applies, If someone desires to get more travel from the speed screw there is a better option than cutting the coils on the spring. The speed screw on the 600~700 Polaris snowmobiles (1999~2002) with PWKs had a longer screw w/longer spring. This allowed for more travel. The other plus was it had a larger knob which made adjusting easier with gloves.

[nknudsen]

Originally Posted by mjtursky

I know this is a pretty old post but this applies, If someone desires to get more travel from the speed screw there is a better option than cutting the coils on the spring. The speed screw on the 600~700 Polaris snowmobiles (1999~2002) with PWKs had a longer screw w/longer spring. This allowed for more travel. The other plus was it had a larger knob which made adjusting easier with gloves.

Great tip if needed! Thanks