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Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc


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  #1  
Old 01-29-2011, 10:38 AM
forgiven forgiven is offline
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Default 2010 Sach suspension thread for noobs

I am going to get a 2010 with the Sach's

Seemingly everyone agrees that it is harsh in the middle. Here is my questions...

Do I even bother to ride one second stock?

If I do have have work done...simple revalve to remove harsh spot from midrange and for my weight or...

Send them to LES at LTR when it sounds like he sprinkles magical shock dust on them and they are best ever.

Thanks


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Old 01-29-2011, 12:51 PM
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HuskyDude HuskyDude is offline
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Yes the stock Sach's are harsh. But ever 'NEW' shock will be harsh till you get a few good rides on them. (approx 15hrs) They need to break in. No doubt Les will make your forks feel and work a lot better. Money well spent. But you have to ask yourself what kind of riding are you doing. Your riding style. Do you compete? Etc. I would suggest visit his web site. LT Racing
Do a little research and then call him. 360-871-2259 He's a great guy and doesn't mind sharing info with you.
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Old 01-29-2011, 08:10 PM
2whlrcr 2whlrcr is offline
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I don't even want to go there.
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Old 01-29-2011, 09:58 PM
forgiven forgiven is offline
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Well then thank you for the vague but uninformative post!
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Old 01-29-2011, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forgiven View Post
Well then thank you for the vague but uninformative post!
You should most defiantly ride it stock...and ride if for a good 20 hours or so.
Mabye where and what you ride the suspension might be ok.

Getting an instant re-valve will not give you anything to compare it to.
You need to know what the bike is doing so that you can relay that info to the tuner.
I would get yourself a notepad and start jotting down ride impressions along with track/trail conditions...and start experimenting with some clicker adjustments, Shock sag and fork height.
Don't be afraid to click away...just make note of the stock settings...you can always go back to stock.
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Old 01-30-2011, 02:42 PM
2whlrcr 2whlrcr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forgiven View Post
Well then thank you for the vague but uninformative post!
Sure not a problem. I would think you'd want to ride the bike first and enough to break the suspension in, before contemplating doing any changes. As others have stated, it takes 10 to maybe 15 hours to lessen the friction.

I had decided to revalve my forks and they have been apart on the bench now for over a month. A combination of errors has caused damaged parts and several reorders from Spain. New parts that are supposed to fit, but don't, etc.... Anyway, I'm sure it will all be sorted out eventially. I'm just glad I didn't attempt this during the middle of the riding season.
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Old 01-30-2011, 03:37 PM
forgiven forgiven is offline
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I will ride it first, and it will be better than anything I have ridden. I have a 2001 with the Ohlins which is OK. I have ridden other bikes but not for extended periods to evaluate anything. Was concerned that I would ride it, think it is fine and miss out on what it could be.

When you ride as bad as I do...you need all the help you can get.
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Old 02-03-2011, 06:00 PM
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Static/Racing Sag settings for the 2010?
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Old 02-03-2011, 06:37 PM
mtothef mtothef is offline
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Static/Racing Sag settings for the 2010?
i'm at 30mm static, 115mm race, 5.2 (stock) spring with not much preload - can't remember the exact number now - but am running intentionally soft while breaking the suspension in. however, even with the sag this low, the bike still turns inside like a mofo, and still gets twitchy on fast straights. i will probably end up dropping the forks all the way down in the triples and leaving the rear at about 110 race sag.

general rule of thumb for linkage rear suspensions with 12" travel is in the 25mm static/100mm race region. i'm old and woodsy, so i prefer the bike a bit softer but still need it to turn well.
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