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Enduro Chassis & Body Enduro Frame, Plastic, Brakes, Bars, Controls, wheels, tires, sprockets & gearing.


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Old 10-27-2018, 01:55 PM
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Default Stuck bolt, bent allen key, 2013 XC300 front brake rebuild.

Anyone have any tips to remove the small bolt pictured below. Went to split the calipers to rebuild the front brake and install new pads, and after a week of spraying penetrating oil, the only thing that moves is the allen wrench as it bends...

What should I use? Heat or an impact? I tried a pin torch (gas soldering iron), but no luck... Thanks!
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Old 10-27-2018, 02:12 PM
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Default Pad pin bolt

Needle nose vise grips may help by gripping the pin,or cutting the pads out, in order to get a larger vise grip inside. a higher quality allen key will help too.
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Old 10-27-2018, 03:38 PM
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I ended up replacing the whole caliper on my 13 after I did the same. I drilled the head of the allen out and was able to remove the pin but at the same time damaged the threads a bit and wasn't happy with the result. Not a lot of room to open it up and drop a helicoil in either. I'm pretty sure I threw it in the bin as they are a dime a dozen.

I rounded it out using a quality socket and a old impact that you whack with a hammer. It was jammed and I wasn't patient enough.

Some heat will help, as will continuing with the oil. A bit of shocking can help allow the oil to penetrate, otherwise I would do as above. Cut the pads off the pin, and then use the full length of the pin to grab and turn. Even if you need to grind a flat side on it to get a good grip. You should be able to get it out without damage to the caliper.
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Old 10-27-2018, 03:51 PM
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Wow, that is crazy! I got lucky by treading lightly with my impact. I put it on the lowest torque setting and went very slow with a 5mm bit. I guess some of the penetrating oil helped because it finally broke free wothout any issue. Bleeding the brakes now after replacing the pistons and seals, and a thourough clean up. Almost there, and the new pads do not drag on the disc anymore! Now to spend an hour in the manual finding my torque settings lol.
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Old 10-27-2018, 04:13 PM
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That's good news, patience is a wonderful gift...I wish I had more sometimes!
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Old 10-28-2018, 01:19 AM
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If this is the pin that holde the pads, I have had success with the following prochedure :

Cut off the pin with a hacksaw two different places. Knock out the part without threads with a suitable drift. Pick out the pads. Now, you have access to the threaded part of the pin from both ends and can use vice grip pliers or allen key or both, in combination with heat and penetrating oil.
In my case it was very easy to get the threaded part out when the other end of the pin was knocked out.
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Old 10-28-2018, 03:59 AM
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To prevent it happening again, apply a thin smear of copper grease to the threads (also known as anti seize compound) then wipe away any excess after fitting.

Copper Grease.jpg

Last edited by Davehuge; 10-28-2018 at 05:29 AM.
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Old 10-28-2018, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davehuge View Post
To prevent it happening again, apply a thin smear of copper grease to the threads (also known as anti seize compound) then wipe away any excess after fitting.

Attachment 7883
And not only to the threads. The other end is also prone to seizing
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2015 EC200 Racing: TE bars, Rekluse Core Exp 3.0, 38mm Lectron & Ohlins S3 steering damper
2006 EC200: 2011 plastics, Rekluse Z-Start, revalved KYB forks & Scotts steering damper
1998 Bimota Supermono
1986 Duc Mille S2
1975 Guzzi sidecar hack
1961 Morini Corsaro 125
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Old 10-28-2018, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anders View Post
And not only to the threads. The other end is also prone to seizing
Yes, good idea.

It's great stuff, I use it all the time on my bikes and car, even my lawn mower! It's so nice when you come to removing anything.

*Protects metal against corrosion, heat and water
*Withstands temperatures of -40C to +1150C
*Does not wash or burn off in normal use
*Suitable for use on wheel nuts & bolts, exhaust brackets, flanges & studs, etc.
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