Idle / Slide lift screw doesn't do jack s*it

[Kyle01]

09' EC250. Runs fine otherwise. I ended up adjusting the throttle cable for now but it's not right... I ordered a stock plastic replacement screw. The jetting is recorded in the manual (previous owner jetted) and has performed well until yesterday.

[Neil E.]

The plastic screw with it's M5 thread is not a snug fit in the carb. The actual hole is tapered due to the casting process. If the screw comes coated with a white substance, do not remove it. This is some kind of thread filler that helps to made the screw fit properly.

If it comes as bare plastic, you might want to wrap it with teflon tape to try and make it fit better.

[Kyle01]

The one I've got coming has the thread sealer on the screw so I should be good to go. If that doesn't keep me idling I should be looking at my pilot correct?

[Neil E.]

It's actually the combination of pilot jet and needle shank diameter that governs your idle/off idle quality.

[Kyle01]

This is what's in the carb currently-

38 pilot
#7 slide
N1EG 2nd clip
175 main
1.5 turns out


The new idle screw isn't in yet but damn, this thing won't idle unless I adjust the cable out. When I do that I can get it to idle down crazy low- seems like the pilot is right (although compared to most of you at sea level I'm a little lean)

I've got a 42 pilot. Is it worth trying?

[kyton]

I got the same issue.

my setup @ sealevel

42 pilot
#6 slide
N1EC 2nd clip
175 main
1.5 turns out

What did you adjust on top of carb or at the throttle? I adjusted mine at the top of the carb.

[Jakobi]

The N1Ex needles have extremely short straight sections, which means it doesn't take many turns on the idle adjuster screw to lift the slide up to the point that you're actually trying to idle on the needle taper.

Back the idle screw right down on a hot engine, set the AS at 1.5 turns, and change pilots until you get one that idles. OR change to a needle with a longer straight section and do the same, but will be much easier.

[Kyle01]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

The N1Ex needles have extremely short straight sections, which means it doesn't take many turns on the idle adjuster screw to lift the slide up to the point that you're actually trying to idle on the needle taper.

Back the idle screw right down on a hot engine, set the AS at 1.5 turns, and change pilots until you get one that idles. OR change to a needle with a longer straight section and do the same, but will be much easier.

Awesome advice- thanks. Can you suggest a needle that's easy to get? I've had great luck with the JD needles on other (4t) bikes- but they don't seem all that popular. I read a lot about CCK/CCM needles, there is so much info that it's overwhelming a little. I just want a good solid middle of the road needle.

[Kyle01]

Originally Posted by kyton

I got the same issue.

my setup @ sealevel

42 pilot
#6 slide
N1EC 2nd clip
175 main
1.5 turns out

What did you adjust on top of carb or at the throttle? I adjusted mine at the top of the carb.

I adjusted it at the throttle as I was in some nasty muddy woods and having to kick it back to life would have been a chore.

[swehollow]

I have something similar on my gasgas and i need some advice.

1. It will idle if i screw the idle screw almost ALL the way in and i dont hit the gas.
2. The airscrew does not seem to have much effect at all.
3. When i hit the gas it revs up but takes far to long to come back down, and once it does it often cannot sustain idle anymore.

What should i do?

Got my needle (n1ec)on third notch, A 040 and a 168 at this moment. slider number 6.

would love any tips as im traveling past my gasgas shop in the morning.