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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc. |
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#1
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Gear oil ....
Ok so ive read the tec section and other various sections on trans oil. Yesterday i was getting major clutch drag were i could not get it into or change down the box while at a stop so i had to stall it.
Its great to chance up and down while on the move but just will not play ball when stopped !!!! So im changing over to 0w/40 oil so what im asking is does the oil have to be transmission or engine oil , cant get Amsoil here in the uk but Castrol ect ect ? |
#2
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I used to use engine oil in my previous bikes (just changed it more reguarly) i think i eventually settled on castrol agri-something as it mentioned that it was suitable for wet clutch applications. Rekluse recommend 15w40 diesel engine oil for use with their clutches s may be an option as well
Been using belray gear-saver successfully on the gasser from day one
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2003 txt250 Pro 2013 Ossa 280i |
#3
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I would check your clutch lever engagement first. Make sure your lever travel is allowing the clutch to fully engage/disengage. I have found through trial and error that a 50/50 mix of motor oil and type F ATF works very well in my 2002 300. Straight ATF made the shifting notchy, and straight motor oil made the lever feel numb and I had to be very deliberate when shifting. But right now, a blend of cheap oil and cheap ATF seems to work well. I believe it's 10w30 oil that I bought, I simply looked for the cheapest bottle and went from there.
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Phil (New bike pending...) |
#4
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Quote:
this stuff http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-935-motu...ese-ester.aspx or equivalent you can get the amsoil from the link or look on ebay, demon tweeks funny enough was the cheapest
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03 ec300 honda cr500 94 |
#5
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Ive gone to the 0/40 fully synth oil and were no better how is the best way of checking the clutch engagement ? it fine up and down the gearbox but for the hell of me cant get neutral .....
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#6
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It's common to have a hard time finding neutral with the bike running. If it works good everywhere else I wouldn't sweat it.
BTW, I've found that my bike shifts well with Penzoil ATF.
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2011 250xc Race |
#7
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A standard diesel oil works well. Synthetic oils stick to surfaces better and can delay your clutch plates on release. This is most noticeable if your bike sits for a long time. Your bike will lurch when you put it in gear (jolt from clutch plates "breaking free").
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2011 EC250E |
#8
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atf
Been using atf with no problems Clutch action seems a little smoother/lighter than with motor oils & it seems to warm up quicker=less drag
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#9
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I spoke with the Rekluse folks at our last KTM Ride Day. The *only* reason the "recommend" Rotella dino oil is that they happened to use it at the time and didn't want to go to the trouble of making an entire list of approved oils. They don't think there is anything special about Rotella.
For my regular GG clutch I have used both dino and synth Rotella, pure Walmart ATF, and 50/50 mixtures of Rotella & ATF. I normally go with 100% ATF because it works as well as anything else and might be a little less "tacky" than the other oils. |
#10
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I seem to remember someone here (GMP?) posting a thread on how they cleaned up their friction plates and it solved a lot of the symptoms you have mentioned
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2003 txt250 Pro 2013 Ossa 280i |
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