Please help me set my EC300 04

[SECRET_AGENT_BOND]

Hi all, for the first:sorry for my mistakes in english, i am from from Czech Republic and my english isn´t very good for talking about this technical stuff. So my problem: I bought month ago GG EC 300 04, but I have problem with correct setting of my Keihin PWK38 carb. I am an enduro rider- so woods,green fields and mud are my best friends. I bought my bike after some cross country proffesinal rider, so jetting was set for track and competition. Yeah-when i am on the MX track, the bike runs perfect, but it´s not that what i want to ride. Bike runs good at high rpm, but middle and low isn´t good, there are some holes and everybody who rode my bike said, that it need some carb setting.

So here is my setting:
Slide 7
Main: 180
Slow: 40
Needle: N1EE 2nd clip
Air screw: 3 1/2 turns
Float level: 18mm

i live in about 1100ft and average temerature is now about 15 degC (59 degFahrenheit)

I set my float level to 18mm because it was leaking gas when it was just standing on "side stand". Now is it much better, i can take my bike over 30 degrees on the side and there is no leaking from carb. But i think that another reason of that leaking was,that my carburator body is just a little bit turned to the left-because my "gas cabel" (cabel from throttle on the handle-bar to carb) is too short and if i turn my carb back to the right-to be in the exact horizontal position, the throttle opens itself when i turn handle-bar to the right (as i said- too short original gas cable).

I have NGK BR9EG spark plug, but everytime when i turn it out for a chop test, it is always black, wet, and often carbonized.

I have problem to set my air screw-when i turn it into the 2 turns, the motor starts very good, but it have trouble idling down and also idle screw must be screwed in as much as it is posible.
So now, i have 3 and half turns on my air screw and motor takes back to the idle rpm really quickly, idle screw must be screwed about one turn less, than before, but starting motorbike is hell! When i take GG after week of standing in my garage, i use choke and motorbike starts after two kicks. When the motor is really heat (for example after hard ride on the MX track), it starts really easily-first kick and go. But-when i let it somewhere five minutes or longer, or when i have to start bike when isn´t fully heated, it´s horrible-sometimes it starts with choke on, sometimes it startes without choke, but it is very choking.
Sometimes i kick my GG over 30 times.

So what should i do? I think that i have to taky main jet down to 175, maybe buy new needle, for example N1EF or N1EG?

Thanks for replies.

[widebear]

Why not try using the search button at the top of the page first, Its very handy, as this topic has been covered about a million times on this forum allready.

[SECRET_AGENT_BOND]

Thank you for useful post. Yes, you are right, I didn´t used search button. Because I read this section completely from first to last page! And still don´t now what to do in my case.

[gasIdaho]

If you live in the US I would highly suggest sending your carb to RB Designs for the mods(link is on this sight). It is instant gratification. Otherwise research this forum for troubleshooting. The whole jetting issue has been discussed ad-nauseam. Also....I believe you are using the wrong spark plug(NGK BR9EG)? I think it should be the NGK BR8EG

[JoshP]

Sounds like you have 2 issues here Bond. First your starting issue seems to be your
air to fuel ratio, so you need to get that air screw back towards stock and you will be
good there. Now your idle issue is probably not related but is being patched with your air screw setting.
I had a a problem like this and it turned out to be the throttle cable in conjunction with the adjustment on the
throttle cap going into the top of the carb. I had to rerun the cable to fit better and then go all the way in on the adjust because basically
my carb was never closing fully causing a wierd idle. Remove your carb leave the cable in the housing and verify that
the slide is closing fully and leaving a slight gap open. If your bike is running great at the higher RPM's your main is probably fine and
your needle / pilot will need to be played with. Like GasIdaho stated try out the B8 style plug which runs hotter and might solve some of your starting issues at high temps. Good Luck -Josh

[SECRET_AGENT_BOND]

gasIdaho: Yes, but I live in central Europe, so RB design mod or LTR jetting kit is here something like a dream

JoshP: Thanks lot for advices, I´ll try it.
I wanna buy new spark plug tommorow, but I think that B8EG will be better than version with R (because I found out that I have also built-in resistance in the spark plug cap from NGK- it is about 5kOhm).

[Boomhauer]

Order a longer throttle cable first off. Next turn the air screw to 2 to 2.5 turns out.

Next run the BR8EG plug.

See how this makes your bike run then post back up and let us know.

[speno]

Hi, i run in the same conditions as you, and my bike runs sweet on these settings. B8EG plug or an eix, 7 slide, n1ef needle in the middle, 38 pilot and a 178 main, air screw 1 1/2 out. Its perfet everywhere, give it a try dude.

[skid jackson]

don't know anything about jetting but if you want really smooth power delivery put a cck needle in there!!! smooth! smooth! smooth!

For hard starting ....
Don't know if this will help but ...
once when I could not get my usually easy to fire 300 to kick over (I thought I fouled a plug) a bud said to kick the bike over very slowly a bunch of times. Slow means just enough force on the kicker to get it to move nice and slow through its arc. like 80 year old fart slow. 7 to 10 slow kicks and it usually fires on the next real kick.

I've done this twice on my bike and four or five times on other 2t bike in our riding area, always works like a charm. Slow means slow slow slow. In every instance I had to throw the other ride off their own bike and slow kick it myself because they did not understand what slow meant. they would always push throught the kicker arc too fast.

none of the above may help but that slow kick tip from my bud has come in handy quite a few times!!!

[GMP]

Guys, he's in Czech so an immediate variety of needles may be a problem. First try the suggestion by speno using the N1EF OEM needle, which you should have or be able to get. This will get it a lot closer. Change the plug ASAP. Do a search and order some brass for experimentation and fine tuning.