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Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke Jetting, Reeds, Air Filters, etc.


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  #11  
Old 02-05-2021, 02:29 AM
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(F5) (F5) is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Cook View Post
I believe that's N1EF that you meant to say in the statement above. I agree with you about the advice to get rid of it and go to a better jet needle (such as the NECW, or some other recommended needle. )


.
Or a twig approximately the right length that seems smaller at one end than the other. Either way around will be better.


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  #12  
Old 02-18-2021, 06:07 AM
Doc Brown Doc Brown is offline
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That your carb doesn't react on the As has nothing to do with the float height nor with the needle.

First look what is installed and let us know, then adjust float height and when you do so check float valve. Check how far the slide is lifted by the idle screw.

Turning in the AS all the way should stall the engine.
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  #13  
Old 02-19-2021, 05:57 PM
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Gasser Nate Gasser Nate is offline
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It kind of does though, when the wrong needle is used, I am looking at you N1ef...
It forces the user to lift the slide too far to compensate for the overly rich first section in a vain attempt to get it to idle.
This then lifts the slide past the effective range of the air screw.
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  #14  
Old 02-22-2021, 10:19 AM
Trailrider Trailrider is offline
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Default Pilot jet story

Here is the whole story. The jet needle wore out on my stock carb. I replaced it with a counterfit Chinese carb.The pilot jet was clogged up even though it was clean when I put it in Jetting is JD jet kit. Adjusting the float bowls was no help. Poor weather has slowed me down.
I plan to reinspect the pilot jet and main jet, and give the whole carb a good cleaning, I think the commies left pieces of metal inside.
If this doesnt work I will either buy a real carb from JD ($300) or part it out.
Any suggestions appreciated.
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