HOw do i go DC on my ec300

[Leon_gasgas]

Hi!

As I wrote yesterday I connected only the yellow wire to the "trailtech" dc reg. Today after 2 hours drive I measured the voltage at the battery with the front light on. It was between 14.40 to 14.75 volts max (high rpm). Pretty good and better than the 14V when I had connected both stator wires together! The battery's cycle use is between 14.40 and 15V. So the whole system is OK. I have to say that last week the trailtech helmets lights flickered sometimes. The hid headlight was ok. I am sure that they won't flicker again! Steve the measurements you gave are really off. Is it a gasgas 2K3 or KTM 2K3?

Many Thanks you put here the link from bajadesigns with a clear diagram on how to go hid without modifying the stator!

Leon

[steve davies]

The stator is a 2k3 gaser,the meter should not read above 14 volts if it does the trail tec isn't doing it's job, so you may just be over charging but I really doubt it. Most of the meters we use are calerbrated at least twice a year and they are off after about 3 weeks.so you will have different values.I am useing a 5.2 amph battery and that will also factor in on what you read at the head light. My Hid uses 3.1 at running and needs 3.8 to start.It trims out after about 45 seconds and drops in amp for about 2 minets. the numbers I gave are all at idle. The whole thing is aples and oranges.your reads will differ from mine but they are in the ball park. As long as it works and your happy.
I'm going to do my other 250 and I'm willing to bet there will be slight differences but as long as the are within range I won't be bothered buy it.
All the large gen sets we test are all over the map we trim til they are close, unless we are going to make parelle units it really isn't that important.
Your chargeing,lights work and no smoke ,lifes good.

[Leon_gasgas]

I am sure the voltmeter is fine because it's the same model as my friend's meter and they read similar values on the same bike. I am really happy with the whole system now and the "trail tech" reg is doing its job fine staying between 14.40 and 14.75V without killing the battery...

The only questions in my head are about the two coils and how they work. When they are connected together there is some waste of energy probably going back to the coils and probably killing the stator. Did the lamp work because there is difference in power between the two coils or because they are in different phases? It seems that when you take power from the yellow wire, the power available from the white wire is quite low.

[GMP]

Did the lamp work because there is difference in power between the two coils or because they are in different phases?

The test lamp lit because the phase difference causes a voltage potential between the outputs at any given point in time. If your really ambitious, connect a dual trace oscilloscope, trigger on one output and you should see the phase angle offset of the second output.

[Leon_gasgas]

Thank you for the info!

I just wanted to add that now the hid helmet lights (26W total) don't work. The start up but after a minute are off. The power from the stator is not enough for them. The hid headlight works fine. If you want to run more than one hid light then you have to rewound the coils.

[Gregarious]

This might require a different thread, but is a battery required for the simplest of light setups? Does the EC that comes with turn signals, high/low beam, etc. have a battery or does it just run off the stator?

I want to add a barely-legal headlight, brakelight, etc. to my 07 EC 300 just so I can run forest roads between trails. The simplest & cheapest solution would be the best...

[GMP]

"Legal" depends on the state's DMV code, and what your looking for (fully street legal, enduro legal, etc.)

From the looks of your bike in the photos, its an early '07 with a 2K-3 ignition (large), and no switch clusters. Basically a DE configuration with the big ignition. The lights are run right off the stator AC, on both the EC and DE. On the Euro EC with the full harness, there is a small rectifier to provide rough DC to the turn signals and horn, it was never designed to run with and charge a battery.

If you don't need the lights to stay on with the motor off, forget the battery and its weight/complication. Likewise, you may not need turn signals and be able to just use hand signals. All the bikes come with brake light switches F&R.

I agree, keep it simple and light with minimal wiring.

[slocalspode]

GMP wrote:
I agree, keep it simple and light with minimal wiring.
----------------------
I agree also, but if you have read the whole thread. Some of us like
the abuse of trying to wire in a battery and go "Full street legal"
Let me relate a little story that happened to me a couple weeks
ago.
I was getting on my bike after leaving work. It was after 6:00PM,
so it was dark. A friend stopped to talk to me while I was getting
the bike unlocked and started. This put a kink in my routine of
unlocking the bike and turning "on" the gas. Saying goodnight
I fired up the bike and started home. I get to the first LARGE
intersection, pull up to the red light and sit. BTW, I live in Los Angeles
near the LAX airport. Just as the light turns green and I take off, the
bike sputters to a stop and dies. Leaving me right in the middle of
two main streets. No lights..nothing. I can't reach the petcock with
my gloved hands. I kick like a fool while a flood of LA traffic flies past
me in their rush to get home. All I could do was wave my arms and
pray for good luck as I pushed the bike across the intersection dodging
cars till I got to the curb. Frightened the crap out of me. Thus my motivation
to get my GasGas'es equipped with a battery and a switch to allow me
to run all my lights without the engine running.
Depending on your needs will determine how much effort you are willing
to devote to putting lights on your bike.
The stock stators, either the 2K2 or the 2K3 will run the 35watt standard
headlight bulb and tail light.
Cheers, Jeff in So. Cal.

[Gregarious]

Originally Posted by slocalspode

GMP wrote:
I agree, keep it simple and light with minimal wiring.
----------------------
I agree also, but if you have read the whole thread. Some of us like
the abuse of trying to wire in a battery and go "Full street legal"
Let me relate a little story that happened to me a couple weeks
ago.

I think GMP was just acknowledging my post about the minimum needed to get a headlight and brake light working. Obviously if you're riding in traffic that's a whole other story.

[GMP]

Thats correct. You have to remember these are designed as race bikes. Its great you guys are doing this and sharing your experiences. I have read the thread, as well as contributed. I am aware of peoples various needs/wants, I just identify with Gregarious and his desire to keep the bike as simple as possible.

Can you actually still get a dual sported EC through CA inspection so its "fully street legal"? I didn't think that was possible anymore. Here we can't even get a plate for the newer bikes so the conversions are pointless. Just the 2-stroke sound will draw cops like a magnet.