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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc. |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#11
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Thanks - I'll locate the drain plug and remove it. However, I cannot find it in the parts diagram...
The PV lever was easy to disengage just by gently prying it. Possibly the 'bolt' is just so worn out (2009, EC300). Could the cylinder be warped? I have had repetitive problems with the engine mounting bolts becoming loose. The last thing before this problem occurred was to overtighten all the bolts with hard-lock paste. |
#12
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Check the threads on engine bolts. My bottom one was worn so bad the threads were not a very good fit. It is 120mm 10mm bolt from memory. Wrecker found me a replacement from his bucket of random engine bolts. .
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'07 EC300 GG '14 TXT250 GG '? 496 CPI Cheetah RZ/RGV hybrid '22 765 Street Triple RS '21 XTrainer '69 Stinger T125 Suzuki '23 TRS 250RR (it's a Trials thing) |
#13
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The crankcase was full of coolant up to the cylinder gasket level. Drained it.
Any pointers how to remove the bolt/nut combo from the PV lever? It does not fit through the opening, and hence I cannot remove the cylinder. Behind the lever, there is a thin round washer stuck on the bolt. Cannot undo it as it rotates with the bolt. Cannot pry it off, either. And the combo is not shown in any parts diagram images... EDIT: Behind the lever, there is a flange and not a washer. Even with heating up the locking nut, it would not come off as there was no chance to counterhold the threaded part from rotating. Last edited by Mikeyx; 06-21-2020 at 02:03 AM. Reason: Rectifying false statement |
#14
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And here's how the tiny part looks like. I wonder where I can get a new one...
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#15
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So that's the triangle plate I talked of. Get someone to weld it back on to the plate and grind excess.
__________________
'07 EC300 GG '14 TXT250 GG '? 496 CPI Cheetah RZ/RGV hybrid '22 765 Street Triple RS '21 XTrainer '69 Stinger T125 Suzuki '23 TRS 250RR (it's a Trials thing) |
#16
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Let's take a look at the pic.
The small notch in the left goes into a 3 mm hole in the triangle plate. The unthreaded section (between the flange and thread) goes inside the loop in the lever. There is also a washer between the loop and retaining nut - these are visible in the earlier pic. So if we look at the earlier photo, the parts go in the following order: locking nut/washer/lever loop/flange/triangle plate Last edited by Mikeyx; 06-21-2020 at 01:59 AM. |
#17
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Well well well. Not good news for the bottom end bearings that have been soaking in coolant.
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#18
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Quote:
Now that the crank case has been drained it is time to worry. I'd say to fill the crank case with a light oil would help, right? |
#19
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Quote:
There is water in the coolant, and water contains oxygen, so that is all that is needed for corrosion of ferrous metals.. If you notice any abnormal vibration or noise from the motor after buttoning it back up, I would split the cases and replace the main bearings. |
#20
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I asked for an opinion from a local dirt bike service workshop (the owner is also a semi-pro rider). He said that there should not be an issue with the bearings.
I have flushed the crankcase with 2-stroke gasoline and then, having tightened the drain plug, poured some more gasoline in there. I guess that there are no hygroskopic material used in the bearings (in an automotive auto transmission, the friction plates do absorb water and swell). Coolant is known to include anticorrosive agents. So I'll get new cylinder seals and try to get it up and running. If there are issues then, I'll put the bike in pieces and sell the parts. Repair would just cost too much...the workshop quoted 5hrs for the job. |
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