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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc. |
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#1
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Making gas gas ec 250 more aggressive
Hi guys looking to make my 2007 250 a bit more aggressive.
Gearing: 13-50 Jetting: 178 main 42 pilot Clip 3 One thing I have noticed is the bike has a reed spacer, would removing this give me much benefit? |
#2
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My '00 will flat eat my kids '04 alive. Differences are 2K2 ignition (smaller flywheel), gnarly exhaust, no reed block spacer and my XC uses the '00 era 200cc CDI which has a different timing curve. Not sure how that would work with your 2-position map switch assuming you have one. Huge difference. That was before the RB squish modification and LTR power valve cover. Same gearing, 13/49 I think. Like an XR vs a CR.
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jeff '00 XC250 (mine) LTS front and rear suspension, power valve cover, carb jet kit and rear chain glide, RB Designs head mod, BRP tall triple clamp, backyard foot-peg lowering conversion. '04 EC250 (the kids) (he can do his own mods haha!) |
#3
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Quote:
How much would a 2k2 ignition set me back? Also isn't the gnarly exhaust the one for more bottom end grunt/power? |
#4
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Back in that era the XC came with no spacer so I have no comparison. It was marketed as a 1/2 Enduro, 1/2 motocross bike. Many folks think the gnarly delivers too much "hit" which sounds like what you're looking for. As for the 2K2, a lot of folks would trade theirs for yours, same reason but 2K2 only has 35w power vs 65w(?) for the 2K3 for lighting, not sure about outright price. My kid destroyed his GG pipe and I replaced it with a Gnarly, and he noticed an Immediate difference (didn't like it). I'm 300lbs so the combination works well for me, my size tames it but it still has excellent bottom end. CDI curve is probably a bigger factor than the spacer. A lot of people that kept that combination switched to the G2 adjustable throttle cam to help control throttle response, again not a factor for me because of my weight.
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jeff '00 XC250 (mine) LTS front and rear suspension, power valve cover, carb jet kit and rear chain glide, RB Designs head mod, BRP tall triple clamp, backyard foot-peg lowering conversion. '04 EC250 (the kids) (he can do his own mods haha!) |
#5
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what needle is it? the actual needle can make a huge difference so your jetting looks good for uk. The standard needle is well known for being rubbish n1ef I think?
Something like an n3eg apparently is a bit more aggressive. Ive got one but not used as yet and I paid just ?9 delievered for it. |
#6
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For the money, the Gnarly pipe is awesome. You can do an easier cheaper mod that will give you such great results. You are talking $200 from ebay. Way more power in the bottom, and great power in mid and even on top.
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#7
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Quote:
if its top end, lose the spacer , get 2k2 ignition, cut the silencer into a 'shorty' and see you can get a messico pipe to fit your model. whip the cylinder off and have it ported, you can always lose a couple of teeth on the rear sprocket |
#8
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Cover the seat in clam shells sewn on. Nastie.
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'07 EC300 GG '14 TXT250 GG '? 496 CPI Cheetah RZ/RGV hybrid '22 765 Street Triple RS '21 XTrainer '69 Stinger T125 Suzuki '23 TRS 250RR (it's a Trials thing) |
#9
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Check your port timing with a degree wheel. You can move your power band higher in the RPM range by raising your cylinder with more gaskets or a spacer. Then you will need to correct the compression and squish by cutting the head for your gas octane rating you will use.
Alternatively, you can just leave the cylinder in place, measure your squish and have the head cut. This will make a significant difference with a minimal expenditure. |
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