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Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke Jetting, Reeds, Air Filters, etc.


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  #11  
Old 06-06-2011, 11:28 PM
Tlineman Tlineman is offline
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should probably mention that I lowered the float slightly as it was dribbling gas, even on the kickstand. This may have helped the jetting.


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  #12  
Old 06-07-2011, 01:08 AM
Sixdays Sixdays is offline
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I just bought a new 2011 300 SD.

Mine has the old style 38. The only jetting mod mine needed was to drop the stock main down from a 175 to a 165. Needle stock and pilot stock (didnt even look at what they were)

The bike runs perfect at at 4500 ft up to 7000 ft. It will idle all day long and never loads up or spooge on the muffler.

I did do a compression test today and it was 170 dead cold and dry. I will do a squish test in the morning and report back.

I rode the GG back to back with a 09 ktm 250 with a new 300 sx kit 2 weeks ago. The GG had more low end than the ktm and slightly less top. From what I have read it should be the other way. This GG really impressed all of the guys we rode with.
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  #13  
Old 06-07-2011, 04:30 AM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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I personally think most of these issues will end up being related to the squish band. Some come closer to where they should be and as such run as expected. Others well out that make jetting changes inconsistant.

The other factor is how many of these bikes are actually jetted correctly as in you can move your clip position without the idle circuit being affected. I have a suspicion that alot of the bikes have been jetted to work but aren't really jetted as well as they could be.

I'm yet to find a needle diameter that will idle on its own with a 38 pilot and the slide just lifted. I have tried everything from F G H J. I know of one other running a 38mm carb with a 35 pilot AS 3 turns out with a G diameter needle.

Some will say that a leaner slide is required. I personally feel the squish band is probably closer to 3mm than 1.25mm. I'll check when its time for a top end (soon). And may replace with an S3 head for some added compression and bling.
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  #14  
Old 06-07-2011, 10:49 AM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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I'm just a casual trail rider, so power is not important to me. Clean running at low speeds is critical. My bike has to be tilited a long way over before it loses fuel out the overflow, so I believe the float height is adequate. There is no rattle from the power valve, so it is probably preloaded OK. I'll bet the squish is poor based on how much variation there is between bikes.

It looks like the first test should be the N3EJ needle and a leaner slide. Does anyone have information on the slide cutout dimensions?
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  #15  
Old 06-07-2011, 11:09 AM
thumperrider1 thumperrider1 is offline
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I run a JD jet kit from a Yamaha YZ250 using the recommended settings. Works great. I have the 38mm carb, but I'm sure it will work well on the 36 with a little tweak of the clip position and AS setting.
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  #16  
Old 06-09-2011, 11:09 AM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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I wouldn't run out and buy a JD kit for a "problem" engine. Poor squish would require more tweaking than what a standard kit could accomplish.

Aside from correcting the squish, the best solution is likely a leaner slide. The cost of a slide is so high that I'd mess with needles first. A triple taper needle with a large diameter and shallow first taper would lean things out.

Some folks get bent out of shape over pilot sizes, but very large (or small) pilot jets are just matching up for the needle shank diameter.

I'm having trouble finding a decent needle chart. There are ones available for the three digit code option needles like CCK. What chart do you guys use for needles like N3EJ?
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  #17  
Old 06-10-2011, 03:37 PM
tanderson91 tanderson91 is offline
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well i have a 2011 3oo. i run nozh needle in third setting 38 pilot 168 main air screw out 1.5- 2, bike is very crisp that needle is a ktm series needle sea level 1000 feet
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  #18  
Old 06-10-2011, 03:47 PM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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I emailed back and forth with James Dean. He is in the process of making a kit for the newer GasGas bikes. It will have number JDG002. He says there will be no need for anything other than his needle kit. His slide price is good, so it will be cost effective to make additional changes. I think more than just the kit will be required when it comes to a problem bike like mine.

I will check my compression pressure, squish clearance and power valve play. There may be some clues to be had there.
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  #19  
Old 06-10-2011, 06:31 PM
cdn280 cdn280 is offline
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Neil, I run a #7 slide in mine if you want the dimensions. I also use a LTR needle which transformed the engine. Its a very shallow taper compared to the stock N1 needles so if the KTM N3 is like that try one. Don't know if LTR still has them, and don't think I had it in when you rode it. It gave it a steady idle speed (not drop to putt putt blubber like stock) and is willing to idle all day without loading up, more responsive to AS adjustment, and smoother roll on power.
I also found that with the stock float height it would pee gas out as a minimal lean angle. Reducing it by .5-1mm fixed that.
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  #20  
Old 06-10-2011, 07:32 PM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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Mike,
The problem right now is that suppliers in Canada stock bugger all, so it's hard to get any carb parts. I'll check the mechanicals soon. The bike is basically unrideable with the stock jetting.
Neil
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