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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #11  
Old 04-20-2009, 07:58 PM
jostby jostby is offline
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Wow, I have never seen a subject that has so many differing opinions! And now I will add mine....
Seems I have read that the nikasil plating is pretty thin and that neither bar-type hones or ball type are recommended because of the chance of wearing through. Scotchbrite is what was recommended and like Brian VT said muriatic acid to remove any aluminum that may be present (use appropriate safety precautions). That being said I tried scotch brite and didn't have any luck whatsoever trying to make things look the way "I thought" it should and I didn't have any aluminum to try to clean off.
If there is any cylinder taper top to bottom a bar-type hone will not clean it up until you come close to (or do) wear through the plating. That leaves the ball hone which does a good job as long as all you do is de-glaze just as gasgasman said. It will also clean uneven surfaces (cylinder taper). I have also used bar hones with a scotchbrite pad between the hone and the cylinder and that works good too. You just have to remember you are just trying to deglaze, not bore to the next size! And use plenty of clean lube.


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  #12  
Old 04-20-2009, 09:22 PM
RBD RBD is offline
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Quote:
Wow, I have never seen a subject that has so many differing opinions! And now I will add mine....
Seems I have read that the nikasil plating is pretty thin and that neither bar-type hones or ball type are recommended because of the chance of wearing through.
I have to agree with this statement 100%. But have to add, using a ball hone will work good for an experienced machinist about 20% of the time. THE most important thing is; NOT to nick or damage the port opening where the 'flash" raps around the port window opening.

If this area is removed or cut open, or chipped, then the plating on the cylinder wall can start to flake off or layer off, and that is a very bad thing to happen.

It is a little more work (elbow grease), but the 3M Scotch-Brite pad in the kitchen sink with warm soapy water does the best job for a plated cylinder in a top end rebuild.

Thank you,
Ron
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  #13  
Old 04-20-2009, 10:34 PM
101racing 101racing is offline
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Smile scotch brite

I think i will go with the scotch brite we had good results last time. i am thinking about doing a little porting just line up everthing and smooth some corners. think thats a good idea? I am going to race in cascade this weekend! Thanks
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  #14  
Old 04-21-2009, 08:59 AM
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I have a Scotch Brite hone. Its made up of a stack of Scotch Brite pad discs on a mandrel. While not actually designed for the application, it works great on a 250 size cylinder.
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  #15  
Old 04-21-2009, 09:15 AM
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gasser gasser is offline
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Scotch Brite makes a bunch of different pads, could someone tell me exactly which one is suitable for cylinder bores? Thanks
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  #16  
Old 04-21-2009, 04:10 PM
RBD RBD is offline
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Originally Posted by gasser View Post
Scotch Brite makes a bunch of different pads, could someone tell me exactly which one is suitable for cylinder bores? Thanks
The green ones you can buy at the market.

Ron
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  #17  
Old 04-22-2009, 01:21 AM
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noobi noobi is offline
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what sort of plating do gasgas' have from the factory, nikasil? or something else?
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