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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #1  
Old 01-02-2015, 11:12 AM
Kendog Kendog is offline
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Default Very poor idle

Hey guys

Just got my bike put back together and I'm struggling to get her to idle
Basically I bought the bike as a fixer upper, I knew it didn't idle when I bought it but I thought a good clean of the carb etc and she would be fine

Anyway 2 months down the line I've done a lot to it
Completely rewired electrics, cleaned everything, full service and guess what it still idles like crap
(Just checked Topend and decoked all fine)

My carb is the stock carb for ec200 2002 (38mm?)

Carb settings

Needle NBHW (stock) 3rd clip
Main - 175
Slow - 50
Slide 5

Anyone got any advice?

Cheers
Ken

Sorry I'll go into a little more detail

Idle screw screwed right in and I've got to turn out the adjuster on the throttle cable to keep it going yet when in riding the bike the revs hang and take a whole to drop down making engine braking none existent.

I've tried a new idle screw and it's the same
Carb off the bike I've screwed in the idle screw and it's lifting up the slide like it should!!
Does this sound like the slow jet is wrong?



Last edited by Kendog; 01-02-2015 at 12:09 PM. Reason: Added more info
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  #2  
Old 01-02-2015, 01:23 PM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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Most folks will probably recommend a smaller pilot. Try a 42, it seems to be commonly recommended. Have you done a compression test? It should be 180-190psi. Have you checked the squish? Ideally you want it to be 1.3-1.4mm and this may require machining of the cylinder head to correct.
Your bike is old enough there may be some wear on the needle jet. A number 5 slide is on the rich side, but the slide cutaway does not control idling.

I've never been happy with the idle on mine. As long as it can mostly idle, that's all I need. I'm also getting something of a hanging idle, but it's more of a nuisance than a problem.
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Old 01-02-2015, 01:37 PM
Kendog Kendog is offline
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I've just ordered a jet kit with all different sizes

One thing I hate it's jetting
Never checked the compression or the squish as I'm about to get this one sleeved and bored to factory spec then I'm going to check the squish.

I do believe my problem is the jetting.
Piston and rings are snug and new no slap etc

Cheers
Ken
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  #4  
Old 01-02-2015, 01:46 PM
Lincolnlock Lincolnlock is offline
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Your pilot jet is way to big. Like it was previously stated, put in a 42 and I'll bet the bike runs sweet.
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Old 01-02-2015, 02:07 PM
Kendog Kendog is offline
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Yeh bud going for the 42 first after a little digging on the forum it's the norm

Wonder why he had it so big.
Can't wait to get out on this thing. Pulls strong just ticking over and engine braking suck asse....
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Old 01-02-2015, 04:10 PM
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Todd5774 Todd5774 is offline
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Engine braking on a 2stroke?!?!
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Old 01-02-2015, 06:15 PM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kendog View Post
Never checked the compression or the squish as I'm about to get this one sleeved and bored to factory spec then I'm going to check the squish.
No sleeve in these motors. There is Nickasil (or equivalent) plating directly applied to the bare aluminum bore. The plating is then diamond honed to match the actual piston size.

Buy the piston first and send it out with the barrel (this assumes there is damage and the bore needs rework). If the bore is OK then just replace the piston and rings. The piston is the wearing component. The plating can go the life of the bike if it is not damaged.
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Old 01-03-2015, 03:27 AM
Kendog Kendog is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd5774 View Post
Engine braking on a 2stroke?!?!
There is a little yes but when the bike won't drop the revs there is no engine braking more like engine still pulling lol!!
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Old 01-03-2015, 03:33 AM
Kendog Kendog is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil E. View Post
No sleeve in these motors. There is Nickasil (or equivalent) plating directly applied to the bare aluminum bore. The plating is then diamond honed to match the actual piston size.

Buy the piston first and send it out with the barrel (this assumes there is damage and the bore needs rework). If the bore is OK then just replace the piston and rings. The piston is the wearing component. The plating can go the life of the bike if it is not damaged.
I had been in contact with a company who suggested that it needed resleeved etc so they must not have known it was plated

There is no damage to the plating just it's worn a little but I'm sure the piston that's in there is slightly larger than stock but I'll have to double check

Cheers
Ken
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Old 01-03-2015, 12:17 PM
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Caravan Monster Caravan Monster is offline
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On my '06 EC200, I have:

slow 45

main 175

needle N1*HW 2nd clip

*'1' weird looking, like a mix of '1' with a small 'B' in front
Looks like an upside down greek beta letter

Slide #6

I should add that squish is 1.2mm iirc and boyeson carbon fibre type reeds. I get the same thing having to wind the tickover right in whatever slow jet size is used. It generally needs to warm up a little to tick over properly, suggesting being a touch on the lean side on the slow circuit (and could probably sort that on the mixture screw), otherwise runs great.

I believe Lancourt is a popular choice for cylinder repair, both UK and overseas.
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