Left hand rear brake???

[roostafish]

This is exactly what I was thinking of doing sled. I've been watching fleabay for the right deal on just a regular front brake MC. I figure I'll turn it around backwards and cut a lever off, drill and tap some holes in it and bolt a thumb appropriate paddle to it.

[iancp5]

I have the Rekluse LHRB kit but haven't got it to work effectively yet. Let me be more specific I am trying to get the dual system to work. I don't know what the problem is yet. I have bled it to death the way Rekluse suggest and several other ways. I suspect that there is too much give in the system somewhere. Not sure where yet or if it can be cured. The footbrake works perfectly as normal but the hand is spongy and not strong enough. I have previously tried just a hand brake and this worked better than dual but didn't have the right gearing - it needed a really hard squeeze to lock the rear wheel. I suspect a dual is suffering from a combination of insufficient gearing and some give in the system.

[d2w]

I originally tried the Rekluse dual setup, but I too couldn't rid it of the spongy feeling; squeezing the lever also pumped up the foot pedal and so reduced the effective rear braking.

I ending up removing the pedal from the system altogetehr, and I couldn't be happier with the result. I'm able to brake slide turn now (as I was never very good at using the pedal), and down-hill sliding contol is now an exercise in precision. Down-hill front-end washouts are also now a distant memory.

In my configuration I use a DOT-4 compatible clutch lever from a 2004 (I thing) GG; later year GG clutches use mineral oils, and the seals are not compatible with DOT fluid. Some people won't ride their Rekluse mounts without a clutch override for fear of a jammed full throttle. A valid concern. But I've been fortunate to not have need for such an override (at least so far). I've safety wired my throttle cable at the grip and along the cable routing to minimize the chance of a pulled-cable.

[sled_fiend]

I've always wondered why bikes didn't have a TPS (throttle position sensor) like they do on snowmobiles. My sled carburetor has a little magnetic switch on it and a little magnet that rides with the slide and there is a switch on the thumb throttle. If the carb slide is up but the thumb throttle is closed (you've let go of the throttle) then it kills spark.

Seems like a pretty simple change for a manufacturer to make and it would eliminate the possibility of stuck throttles ruining your day.

[Rick]

Roost,

I have a Bermbo front brake unit hanging in my shop...came off the 2hundo when I swapped out the forks....

Drop me a pm.

[GMP]

My neighbor is an avid street rider, and ironically was badly injured in a car accident. He now has very limited strength in his right hand. He had a guy do a custom left hand thumb brake setup on his BMW that runs the front brakes. It works great for him.

[iancp5]

Originally Posted by sled_fiend

I've always wondered why bikes didn't have a TPS (throttle position sensor) like they do on snowmobiles. My sled carburetor has a little magnetic switch on it and a little magnet that rides with the slide and there is a switch on the thumb throttle. If the carb slide is up but the thumb throttle is closed (you've let go of the throttle) then it kills spark.

Seems like a pretty simple change for a manufacturer to make and it would eliminate the possibility of stuck throttles ruining your day.

That seems like a good idea. I think most 2T riders have experienced the stuck throttle. I had it happen with a Rekluse on a 2T and had to bail out. Luckily it was at low speed in the woods, I missed the trees and when the bike hit the ground it freed the throttle up and it closed so no damage to either of us. Made me nervous for quite a while as I could find no reason for it.

[sled_fiend]

I've had the same concern with going to LHRB and loosing my clutch override on my rekluse. I've talked to some people that say 'well you should never have a stuck throttle if the carb is maintained and you safety wire the cable'. Yeah that's true but I had a bike rev out on me due to a failed ignition side crank seal sucking air too.

I'm thinking with the LHRB, if you did have an "rpm malfunction" couldn't you just apply the rear brake to bring the revs down and stall out the engine?

[iancp5]

Originally Posted by sled_fiend

I'm thinking with the LHRB, if you did have an "rpm malfunction" couldn't you just apply the rear brake to bring the revs down and stall out the engine?

You can't hold them on the rear brake anyway. Had it happen another time on a 300, applying the back brake had virtually no effect. I think multiple kill switches might be the way to go.

By the way can you get clutch override on GasGas with Rekluse. I took my clutch off because it seemed to do nothing - the engine wasn't running though.

[d2w]

I have no direct experience with the following but I've heard that on a standard Rekluse the manual clutch has little effect when the engine/clutch are fully engaged (say, under the conditions of a run-away throttle).

So it may be the case that a manual clutch will have minimal effect on the Rekluse while under full power.

Dale