Anybody install the eStart conversion kit?

[SingleTrackMind]

Hey guys, has anybody installed the eStart conversion kit on a 2T? I bought mine through the dealer I got my bike from. Unfortunately he installed the key and awful headlight switch that comes with it. I'd like to get my hands on some wiring diagrams or some ideas from you guys on how to get rid of my key and also changing my headlight switch so it doesn't have running lights.

Thanks for your input guys. i've been searching high and low for any details on these two mods and not really getting anywhere. I'm not electrically savvy so I really don't know how to just rewire without a little help from a friend.

[SingleTrackMind]

Through my reverse engineering I have found the following:

not sure what the lighting wiring is yet. Any help would be very appreciated.

Blue (High Beam?)
White (Low beam?)
Yellow (Running light)
Yellow/Green (guessing 12v Input)


On the switch the blinker, horn, and starter all splice to the same red wire in the estart wiring loom.

Brown blinker
Green blinker
Red/Black blinker +

Blue/Red is the green start buttion +
White/Black is the green start button -

Grey on the switch side is horn -
Red on the switch side is horn +

Red, Blue/Red, Red/Black all splice to a red on the wiring loop under the shrink tubing.

Yellow / Red is Kill ( assuming + )
White / Yellow is kill ( assuming -)



Grey and Brown are blinkers and have their own connector.

[Neil E.]

Originally Posted by SingleTrackMind

Through my reverse engineering I have found the following:

not sure what the lighting wiring is yet. Any help would be very appreciated.

Blue (High Beam) yes
White (Low beam) yes
Yellow (Running light) it's 12VAC power, which also inputs to the hi/lo switch
Yellow/Green (guessing 12v Input) no, it's chassis ground

On the switch the blinker, horn, and starter all splice to the same red wire in the estart wiring loom. yes this is 12VDC power
Brown blinker, yes, left turn
Green blinker, yes, right turn
Red/Black blinker +, yes 12 VDC power

Blue/Red is the green start button +, yes, but power in
White/Black is the green start button -, no, it's power out to start relay

Grey on the switch side is horn -, no it's power out to the horn
Red on the switch side is horn +, no it's power in to the switch
(other side of horn is grounded)

Red, Blue/Red, Red/Black all splice to a red on the wiring loop under the shrink tubing. yes, all are 12VDC power

Yellow / Red is Kill ( assuming + ) unknown, normally yellow/green chassis ground is used here
White / Yellow is kill ( assuming -) not -, connects to black/yellow on CDI and shorts out AC voltage from exciter winding


Grey and Brown are blinkers and have their own connector.

answers marked in red

[Neil E.]

Go to: http://www.gasgasmotos.es/en/manuals/2.html and download 2011"EC 250 cc E" or 2011 "EC 300 cc E" from the EXPLODED column (it's the same manual in both places). The diagram can be zoomed in enough to follow the connections.

[SingleTrackMind]

Fantastic Neil! Thanks SO much for this. I found the manual you were referring to. It was a bit too blurry to make sense of with my lack of electrical wiring know how.

Would you happen to know how to bypass the 4 wire key switch? I'd like to either convert it to a button somehow or get rid of it all together. I will have to change the running light to power off with the hi/low somehow if I bypass.

[Neil E.]

Removing the key switch is easy. It only has two functions; first is grounding the ignition, second is powering the start button. Once you uplug the wiring connector, the normally closed ground circuit is open thus you can start the bike using the kickstarter.

The yellow/black and yellow/green should be left unconnected. The red/black and red wires must be connected together so power gets to the start button. This allows the estart to work.

The small "city light" is almost useless. You could put a male/female connector on the wire going to it and leave it unconnected. Plug them together if you ever need it [constantly] on. Make sure the female connector is on the supply side so it can't short out to the frame. Or you could remove the light's feed wire and splice it to the white low beam wire and it would work only when the low beam is on. Just make sure the original power wire is covered up and can't short out.

The yellow/green is ground and connects to both the headlight bulb and the city light bulb.

[SingleTrackMind]

Originally Posted by Neil E.

Removing the key switch is easy. It only has two functions; first is grounding the ignition, second is powering the start button. Once you uplug the wiring connector, the normally closed ground circuit is open thus you can start the bike using the kickstarter.

The yellow/black and yellow/green should be left unconnected. The red/black and red wires must be connected together so power gets to the start button. This allows the estart to work.

The small "city light" is almost useless. You could put a male/female connector on the wire going to it and leave it unconnected. Plug them together if you ever need it [constantly] on. Make sure the female connector is on the supply side so it can't short out to the frame. Or you could remove the light's feed wire and splice it to the white low beam wire and it would work only when the low beam is on. Just make sure the original power wire is covered up and can't short out.

The yellow/green is ground and connects to both the headlight bulb and the city light bulb.

Can't wait to try this! Thanks Neil!

[SingleTrackMind]

Just wanted to thank you for all the help. I was able to replace the lighting switch and remove the key all together to get my trailtech voyager mounted and everything is working like I want. Thanks Neil!

[Neil E.]

Glad to help.