Working on the GasGas

[dcg141]

One of the things I heard about GasGas in the past was they are difficult to work on..ie there are some tight fits. I've been tinkering with my bike and I will agree a couple of things are kind of a pain to get to. They just happen to be the 2 things your probably going to run across in setting up a new bike. Removing the carb and removing the shock.
Both are much easier to do by removing the rear frame section. If you pull the rear section and take the top shock bolt out the shock will move back far enough to making getting the carb on and off pretty easy. Obviously those complaing have never pulled the carb from a pre 09 Husaberg. Now thats a real pain. The rear shock can be removed without taking any of the likage apart by removing the top bolt and pulling the shock back so you can raise the rear wheel. Raise it about 8 inches and block it and now you can get to the lower shock bolt and pull it out the right side. The shock will lift out from the top. Not as easy as a PDS KTM but nothing is as easy to work on as that bike.
I'm going to do a couple of things to make getting the rear frame section off easier. Going to install speed nuts for the silencer and drill holes in the side panel to access the bolts. I may weld aluminum collars on the top of the frame section and tap them so you don't have a nut to fool with when removing the top bolts. Also thinking to making a plug for all the wiring to be able to pull the frame section off completly and quickly.
Other than those 2 items every thing else looks very easy to get to. Working on modern Japanese aluminum framed bikes is much more difficult.

[stainlesscycle]

to remove carb:
stand on bike's left side.
loosen airbox and intake clamps
remove fuel line
rotate carb to remove top and slide
pull.

it helps if intake and airbox boot is warmed gently with a heatgun.

seems pretty easy to me. i've done it at least 100 times.


i always struggle with the rear shock. never been able to weasel it out easily even with tank and subframe removed and swingarm strapped up.

[john01]

Hmm got the carb off our 2010 300 with no problem and didn't remove the subframe. Try that on a Honda 450R!

[dank]

Originally Posted by stainlesscycle

i always struggle with the rear shock. never been able to weasel it out easily even with tank and subframe removed and swingarm strapped up.

i just put the bike on a stand, unhooked the top bolt, and slid shims (2x4s and chunks of plywood) under the tire until i could get at the bottom bolt with a socket. turned the shock and pulled it out. with the bottom subframe bolts taken out and the top ones loosened, then swung the whole rear of the bike up. shock came right out. still a PIA, but not horrible and i didnt have to take the linkage apart.

[dcg141]

I got the carb out ok but kept having issues with getting it back on..It kept hanging up between the shock and frame rail. It would go but you really had to finesse it back in.

[2whlrcr]

Tight fit yes, but it can be done with some finesse and after a few times no big deal. I like the fact you can change the jetting, without removing the carb. I can't do that on my Husky WR250. You have to remove the tank, to change the jetting.

As someone else mentioned, try that on a Honda four stroke. I had a 250X, loved the bike, but what a royal pain in the ass to work on. Virtually requires taking half the bike apart to get the carb out. It took me a couple of nights in the shop once, to change the throttle cable. Of course I'm not the best wrench, but I dreaded working on that thing.

[mcnut]

I also had 250x's for years. Like you said, to change out a throttle cable plan on several hours of frustration, and lots of cussing! It was easier and faster to shim the valves. And I got plenty of practice doing that.

[TNT Cycle]

I thought carb was easiest Ive ever seen to remove possibly easier than any ktm Ive own/worked on. Shock could be another story but no worse than rest on world but maybe ktm.

Yeah try working on any crf...wtf maybe try working on jetting...spend an hour getting it apart then hour back together to find you need to do it again!

cheers,

Rick

[GMP]

The shock can be removed without even lifting the subframe. I have done it by first moving the preload rings up and releasing the spring, sliding the damper out and then the spring separate. Its a bit of a puzzle but its possible. My buddy from TX (Boomhauer) has done it with the spring on. It would be eaiser to do with the pipe off, but being I have a Hyde combo that makes more work screwing around with the mounts. This is good if you need to make a quick spring or valving change.