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Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc


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  #11  
Old 11-09-2017, 01:07 PM
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ssaulnier ssaulnier is offline
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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It is nice if the forks and shock move the same amount when you bounce, but the folks will generally have more friction so sometimes don't move as well unless the seals are greased and the bushings are in good shape and the oil is fresh. Mobile 1 AFT seems to produce less seal friction and is a good choice for these forks.

Make sure that your bushings are not worn when you take the forks apart and replace them and the oil seals when you can.

Your forks have 10 face shims on the base valve. That is way too many. Most people only use 3 or 4 for off road.

The reason your rebound control is ineffective is that:
1. the rebound shim stack usually doesn't have enough shims (add shims as identified below)
2. there is a bleed hole drilled in the rebound piston (leave it alone for now)
3. usually there is a bleed shim on the face of the rebound stack (remove it)

The base valve piston also has a bleed hole. You can leave it alone for now.

I suggest you try something like these stacks (credit to Motosportz, Kyle Tarry & GMP at CafeHusky):

If you don't have these exact shim sizes, just use what you have to get close. It is bound to be better than what you have.

Base Valve:
22.1 (3x)
14.1
20.1
18.1
16.1
14.1
12.1
10.1

Midvalve assembly (rebound stack on top with midvalve stack below piston):
<nut>
15.1
17.1
18.1
19.1 (2x)
22.1 (2x)
<piston>
22.1 (2x)
20.1
18.1
16.1
14.1
12.1
10.1
18.1

Float is about 1mm with this midvalve setup

I implemented these stacks on my forks this week and am going to try 130 mm air gap using Mobile 1 ATF (7.5 wt). I'll ride it this weekend.

If your midvalve nut has never been removed it will be difficult to remove the first time since the midvalve shaft threads have been peened to prevent the nut from backing off. Mine had already been taken apart, so I am not familiar with how to get the nut off in the first place.

Look up that procedure and be careful and take it slow. You don't want to twist off the end of this rod since that will disable both the midvalve compression and the rebound functions.


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  #12  
Old 11-09-2017, 01:14 PM
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ssaulnier ssaulnier is offline
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One more thing. Your Silkoline 7.5 wt fork oil should be just fine, so don't go out of your way to get something else if you already have some left over.

I just suggested Mobil 1 ATF since it works well and is easy to get at local auto parts stores. Guys on the KTM Talk site used to use gallons of it on their OC WP forks back in the day.
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  #13  
Old 11-20-2017, 09:29 AM
Thompo Thompo is offline
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Location: Northern Ireland
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hi Folks,

Finally got around the riding the bike again after removing 2 shims from LS in each side and dropped the oil level to 120mm.
Felt similar and hands still sore after a short period of time.

Fully stripped them this weekend and checked a few things.
Forks were rebuilt 6hrs ago with fresh oil bushings and seals.
Everything looked good inside except the oil which was very metallic.


Made quite a few changes hopefully to give me a workable base line.
Compression should now be noticeably different (for info piston has no bleed).
WAS,23,23,23,23,23,23,23,23,23,23, 11 ,22,22,22,22,21,20,18,17,16,15,14,13,12,12

IS, 23,23,22,18,15,14, 11 ,23,22,21,20,19,17,16,13,12,12

Found the standard rebound stack to be
Check valve,Piston,22,12,19,17,15,12. Rebound piston has a tiny bleed hole ~1mm.
New stack to try and get the adjuster working
Check valve,Piston,22,22,12,22,19,17,15,12

Im aiming for compliance over rocks and roots typical of Irish forest enduros. Would it be best to stick with the check valve or a mid valve arrangement? Max speed in rough ground likely to be middle revs in 3rd. Im not fast lol

Is the "Float" the amount the check valve on rebound side can open? I think we checked it around 1.5mm.

We suspect the metallic oil could be the damper rod deffo does not appear to be coated. Cleaned it well and gave it a light rub with polish and rag was black, seems like raw Alu, would be very easy to mirror polish as most of it already is!

Also found what I assume is a type of bottom out valve assy, not adjustable but must be removed to get the damper rod out.
Pic attached.

Cheers
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File Type: jpg 20171118_135203.jpg (113.5 KB, 26 views)
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  #14  
Old 03-08-2018, 03:19 AM
Thompo Thompo is offline
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Just thought I would update this.

I stripped and cleaned the forks again and rebuilt them broadly inline with the info above (Thanks ssaulnier!) creating a midvalve setup with what I had available, added 6mm preload and rebuilt using some AW32 hydraulic fluid.

Forks are significantly improved, granted I was only out around a forest and never into 3rd gear but my wrists were not sore after 2hrs, where previously 10mins was enough to cripple me!

Mate has just got a 2006 200. His forks seem very plush compared to mine so ill have a look inside when doing the seals for him.
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  #15  
Old 03-08-2018, 03:39 PM
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Harry Harry is offline
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Hi I have the factory manual. It's too big to attach. PM me and I will email it to you.
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