Issue with ac-dc converting.. Please help pic inside

[Jimmy]

I havent looked inside the stator, but all wires from battery is new, the rectifier is brandnew. Ima go thru everything again, remove and clean my earth point for the r/r.
I will even change my switch to if thats a bad one.
Might be my lamp thats to strong, but a orginal 35w halogen.. how many amps is one of thouse taking? You know? Thanks for all the help man.


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[Leo]

"Might be my lamp thats to strong, but a orginal 35w halogen.. how many amps is one of thouse taking? You know? Thanks for all the help man. "

35W in AC is less than 35W in DC because there some loss converting AC to DC and if you are working with half wave rectifier it's worse....

[Neil E.]

You should have no issues with a 35W halogen bulb. We know that a 2K2 stator puts out 35W and can (just) power a stock headlight bulb. The 2K3 that puts out 70W can easily handle the stock bulb.

You should be able to connect your 35W bulb directly to stator yellow and frame ground and have it work OK directly on AC voltage (bulb doesn't care whether you give it AC or DC). The stock regulator should clip the AC voltage so the bulb doesn't burn out.

One thing to remember is that the white wire is NOT connected to the stock regulator, so don't connect your bulb directly to the white wire and frame ground for testing.

Test your stator as per the workshop manual.

[Leo]

Had used 55W halogen in mine 2011 whith no problem.

[Jimmy]

Im to novice on this, i think i must leave it to someone that knows more then me. I changed my battery, still doing the same... so the one i have is a half way? How do i know if its a halfway or a full wave one?
Even when i put a 35w halogen lamp on it, it still drain my battery..
and a big not is, i havent done anything to the stator itself. Maybe i should remove the original ac? I still have that connected to the org regulator. But that is only for brakelights..


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[Neil E.]

You should have no issue with both systems working together. That means:
1) Yellow & ground with AC regulator
2) White & ground with DC rectifier

System 2 could be done with the yellow wire instead of the white wire if the voltage seems high. The only requirement is that the battery must be directly connected to the DC rectifier output.

While a fullwave rectifier is the usual thing to buy as an aftermarket device, a halfwave rectifier will work fine too. The fullwave is a bit more efficient, but the battery will filter/smooth out the ripple from a halfwave.

Your fast voltage drop makes me think you have a bad DC rectifier that is not providing enough current to maintain the load or charge the battery.

[Jimmy]

Very strange tho my rectifier is brand new. I will try with a 35w lamp and se if it still drains the battery. Cause as it is now, with only the 40w led.. its draining fast even when im driving and have high rpm.. im sure ive done something wrong here.. but it sounds so easy.
White wire to r/r yellow, other r/r yellow to earth in frame, red and black wire straight to battery.


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[Neil E.]

You've got it right, so it's either the stator or the new r/r. The only other possibility is a questionable connection if your wiring doesn't actually match your sketch.

[Peppito]

That?s exactly the problem i had / has. But you were better explaining than me

[Jimmy]

I sorted it! Woho!!
I changed from the white wire to yellow wire from stator, now its charging.. atleast staying on 12.4v when lamp is on!
Thank you so much for all the help! Your awesome Neil E!!


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