#21
|
|||
|
|||
Yes they do. I re-read the Rekluse oil recommendation again. A very soft recommendation, now, ending with a "use whateve you use but if you have issues, give Rotella Dino a try."
I ordered their very pricey adjuster. I mentioned that some GG owners had issues with bleeding the component. He seemed puzzled by that. What mineral oil are folks using in the 2011 AJP clutch master cylinders ? Someting cheaper than Magura Blood, I hope. Lastly, I have red and blue disk springs in a baggy. I am wondering if using stiffer springs would allow me to ease back on the gap and keep the Rekluse behaving at idle. I wonder if I will have issues with mid-RPM engagement or hill climbing of a technical nature ? |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/sho...experts+please
__________________
2011 GG EC 300E, 1994 CR 250R, 1984 RM 250 E, 2022 Ranger 300 "If you stop eating donuts you will live 3 years longer. It's just 3 more years that you want a donut." ―Comedian Lewis Black "I think best when I have a wrench in my hands." Soichiro Honda "Dreams are messages from the deep." -Unknown Sardaukar |
#23
|
||||
|
||||
The solution to too much drag (bad creep in gear at idle and engine stalling) is found in the small adjustment springs: Go with the blue ones.
DON'T try and modulate the clutch drag with the center hub adjustment. Stick with one turn+2 tick marks. I think I ended up using the anti-squeal o-rings but I can't remember for sure. It still squeals when It starts slipping badly. Its really telling me that I need to shift down...
__________________
Newest Spanish Girlfriend: 2011 300 Six Days My Daughter is a U.S. Marine |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
What behavior will I see with the blue vs the silver ?
|
#25
|
|||
|
|||
I've decided to start from scratch.
I removed the EXP ring and took it apart. The former owner hand a combo mix of copper-colored springs on one side and blue-colored springs on the other. The blue springs felt stiffer. I went with BLUE all the way around. Looking at Rekluse videos on the web. |
#26
|
||||
|
||||
EDIT:
Rick, I got my reply in after you had posted that you went with the blue springs. And I may be confused at the stiffness difference between the springs, but the blue ones are the ones you want. My un-edited post remains below: The adjustment springs are the tiny ones under the 1/4 turn locks that hold the EXP friction disk assembly together. There are 6 of them. For the Gassers the assembly comes from Rekluse with 3 blue and 3 red springs (medium engagement). That is typically too hard a set-up and causes stalling and a hard clunk and lurch when dropped into gear. There is way too much creep in gear at idle. The silver springs are used for most of the Jap bikes and I gather from the table in the instructions that they are stiffer even than the red ones. Sounds like your used kit isn't for a Gasser. I recommend calling Rekluse to ensure that the plates and other bits are the ones you need. All the kits share parts, but there are also bike-specific parts in there. Back to the blue springs: Swapping out the springs for all blue ones will raise the engine speed required for the clutch to start engaging. You will get less clutch drag at idle and a smoother engagement as you roll on the throttle off idle. Its confusing because the table labels the blue springs "High Springs." They are actually lighter springs and refer to a "higher" speed requirement for engagement. The center pressure plate adjuster is used to adjust the feel of the clutch lever to rider preference. It effects how the lever feels when the clutch gets hot. Its small window of recommended adjustment of 1 turn to 1 turn + 4 tick marks (1 turn + 2 ticks being the starting point) ensures that as the clutch heats up it will disengage and as it wears over time it wont slip and cause premature wear.
__________________
Newest Spanish Girlfriend: 2011 300 Six Days My Daughter is a U.S. Marine |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
The videos I've seen have the EXP ring full engaging the basket fingers.
Check out the photo to see that my EXP ring is only half way in. Yes, I have 8 steels and 7 fibers. Edit: The Rekluse video says this is normal -- http://www.rekluse.com/videos.shtml |
#28
|
|||
|
|||
My exp ring extends beyond the fingers just like your basket in the photo.
__________________
2011 GG EC 300E, 1994 CR 250R, 1984 RM 250 E, 2022 Ranger 300 "If you stop eating donuts you will live 3 years longer. It's just 3 more years that you want a donut." ―Comedian Lewis Black "I think best when I have a wrench in my hands." Soichiro Honda "Dreams are messages from the deep." -Unknown Sardaukar |
#29
|
|||
|
|||
I think like the idle behavior a little better at 1 and 2 tics. Maybe not enough free play gain, but there is some. Not sure if I could quantify any higher rev slippage from last night's speed runs down the road.
What is the set up technique and adjustment process for the adjustable slave cylinder ? For converting it back to a non-EXP Core-Only clutch, is it just a matter of removing the EXP ring and putting in my last (spare) friction and bolting everything up? |
#30
|
||||
|
||||
NO - You would have to buy the Rekluse Manual Clutch Pressure Plate... I looked into this myself.
__________________
2012 - XC 300 Racing Seattle, WA |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
RB Swab or RB Mod? 2005 to 2011 | AZRickD | Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke | 23 | 07-23-2013 12:55 AM |
2005 to 2011 transformation questions | jcborden | Enduro Chassis & Body | 20 | 05-23-2013 11:05 AM |
2005 to 2011 transformation | whodat | Enduro Chassis & Body | 23 | 03-22-2013 10:30 PM |
2005 VS 2011 Shock | celler | Enduro Suspension | 2 | 03-03-2013 07:47 PM |
Why Upgrade from a 2005 to a 2011? | celler | General Discussions & Announcements | 36 | 10-18-2010 05:45 PM |